tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-49062208675896137652024-03-13T18:11:19.206+00:00Around Britain with a PaunchBrownershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09494760235889452922noreply@blogger.comBlogger567125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-4088703561586675422017-03-20T23:31:00.003+00:002017-03-20T23:31:49.873+00:00My Cult Vinegar and Cult Ceramics AdventureI am sorry for the lack of posts recently.<br />
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My attentions have been going elsewhere.<br />
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To work. Boo.<br />
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To my daughter and wife. Wahoo.<br />
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But also towards a new adventure. <a href="https://www.cultceramics.co.uk/" target="_blank">Cult Vinegar and Cult Ceramics</a>.<br />
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I've become obsessed with fermentation and living ingredients.<br />
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Sourdough bread; home made yoghurt; kombucha; fermented pickles; kimchi; sauerkraut; and most significantly vinegar. Yes vinegar. You don't choose what you become passionate about. It just happens. But personally, I hold all those lovely bacteria responsible. They've taken over my brain and gut. But not necessarily in that order.<br />
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A while ago we spent a life changing week in Burgundy in a stunning hunting lodge up on the plateau above Beaune. The rustic kitchen echoed with the spirit of Floyd. But rather than getting sozzled on exceptionally good burgundy, we enjoyed it and then tipped the remaining dregs into a pair of vinaigriers.<br />
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These traditional stoneware crocks sit on the kitchen dresser minding their own business. Unfazed by the ravages of modern technology. Oblivious to the 21st century. Heavy, rustic and with a footprint the size of a small car they beg to be filled up and bowed down to. When you lift the lid, your nostrils dilate and your heart races. The smell of living vinegar is intense. And I fear, addictive!<br />
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Over time the natural yeasts and bacteria in the surrounding environment make their way into the crock and take hold of the wine. Once this has set in and the 'Mother' has formed, the vinegar making process is now under way. French kitchens will often have their own vinegar ticking away for generations. As such each vinegar is unique - with its own subtle characteristics.<br />
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Vinegar will form in around 6-8 weeks in a warmish kitchen. And from that moment on when the pH dips below 3 the vinegar becomes delicious. Leave it a bit longer and a strange, jelly fish like substance will grow on the surface of the vinegar - much like a SCOBY does on top of Kombucha.<br />
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Simply draw off your vinegar and use it in an array of recipes, as a dressing or drink it (really, Jesus Christ's last ever drink). And continuously top up with leftover wine as and when you have it.<br />
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I came back from Burgundy all revved up about live vinegar so started making it at home. Several years later and I've taken this from being a hobby into a little business.<br />
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I have partnered with an incredible ceramics designer called <a href="http://billylloyd.co.uk/" target="_blank">Billy Lloyd</a> to create a fermentation vessel that is specifically created for turning your leftover wine into delicious, small batch, living vinegar. The business is called Cult Ceramics and our first product is the Vinegar Vase which is shown below as a prototype. The hexagonal design means you can cluster a few Vinegar Vases together very efficiently and stylishly in a way that's more in keeping with a modern kitchen than what you might find in rural France.<br />
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It is currently in the final stages of manufacture and will be available to buy soon once we launch it at Daylesford during London Craft Week. To view details about the launch event click <a href="https://daylesford.com/events/london-craft-week-showcase-the-vinegar-vase-with-billy-lloyd-jonathan-brown-london/" target="_blank">here</a>. And if you really can't wait, you are more than welcome to pre-order one over at <a href="http://www.cultceramics.co.uk/">www.cultceramics.co.uk</a>.<br />
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I've also been made a range of small batch, living vinegars. Choose from Red or White Wine Cult Vinegar. Or be more adventurous with Ruby Port; Spanish Moscatel; German Riesling; Champagne; 1998 Bordeaux; and English Red Wine Cult Vinegars. They've all got their own unique characteristics. These are also available to buy at <a href="http://www.cultceramics.co.uk/collections/cult-vinegar">www.cultceramics.co.uk/collections/cult-vinegar</a>.<br />
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Primarily these vinegars are all delicious. And I find their subtle differences fascinating. But additionally, they are all unpasturised so contain living good bacteria that many people claim have probiotic and prebiotic qualities that may benefit your gut health - much like an actimel or live yoghurt does. Some people feel less bloated. Other claim to fart less. And some don't feel as hungry. For more on this read The Gut and google 'health benefits of vinegar'. But crucially, it's a brilliant way to turn stale old slops of wine into something piercingly delicious.<br />
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It's an exciting venture and I hope you all come along for the ride. If you want to get in touch about Cult Vinegar and Cult Ceramics drop me a line at jonathan@cultceramics.co.uk.<br />
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<br />Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-55963502146120836782015-09-03T17:23:00.000+01:002015-09-03T23:38:46.168+01:00Etxebarri<div class="MsoNormal">
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/21089350566/in/dateposted-public/" nbsp="" title="Spectacular lunch at Asador Etxebarri near Bilboa to end our #basque adventure"><img alt="Spectacular lunch at Asador Etxebarri near Bilboa to end our #basque adventure" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/675/21089350566_f8f1db5a36.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div>
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Cloaked in smoke. Revered for its authenticity. Famed for
it’s charcoal scented beef. <a href="http://asadoretxebarri.com/en/" target="_blank">Etxebarri</a> is ahead of its time. And wonderfully
behind the times. Wedged in the mountains above Bilboa it’s a beacon of
gastronomy in a village where time doesn’t just stand still, but runs still. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/21105449662/in/dateposted-public/" nbsp="" title="View from Etxebarri"><img alt="View from Etxebarri" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5784/21105449662_2a279a43c6.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></o:p></div>
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It’s hard to describe how beautiful the setting is. This
photo gives you a glimpse. But doesn’t do it justice. Having driven through
the industrialised valleys out of Bilboa, the hills around Etxebarri are an
Elysian Alpine Meadow of dramatic and humbling views. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Etxebarri has been at the top of our list for years. Sure,
we’ve wanted to eat at other fancy restaurants, but this is different. It’s
iconic. It’s a one of a kind. Smokey. Authentic. Victor Arguinzoniz runs it
with exquisite skill and startling affinity to the ingredients from the area
and taste. Whilst other smart, progressive restaurants are all exciting, it’s
Etxebarri that has stood above - wooing us via sending smoke signals.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Much like eating at El Bulli – this was a seminal
experience. With each course building on the last. Sure, there were a couple of
courses which weren’t as exciting, but the majority were immense. Here are the
highlights.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/20492928854/in/dateposted-public/" nbsp="" title="Freshly made, smoked, rare chorizo was one of the highlights at Asador Etxebarri. Incredible warm tang of smoke and soft, tartare like pork. Ideal for pregnant @cowmeister #basque"><img alt="Freshly made, smoked, rare chorizo was one of the highlights at Asador Etxebarri. Incredible warm tang of smoke and soft, tartare like pork. Ideal for pregnant @cowmeister #basque" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5786/20492928854_d6ae0647a8.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></div>
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Freshly made, rare (almost raw) smoked chorizo was one of
the very best things I’ve ever eaten. It is also probably the least pregnancy
friendly thing you’ll ever come across – apart from maybe sushi from xxxx. It
had the soft texture of beef tartar. But with layers of smoky sweetness and a
punch of chilli. It would make for an excellent starter for your final meal on
death row.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Wild mushrooms with artichoke hearts was another smoky
delight. Lighter in flavour and texture than the chorizo, it had an earthy,
woody sweetness that was offset by a very fresh vinaigrette. I had been
expecting bit hits of smoke, but the smoke was used far more subtly as a
flavour enhancer.<o:p></o:p></div>
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A single oyster, smoked and re-housed back inside its shell
was sublime. I can imagine it would have been easy to have lost the texture of
the oyster – for it to have been turned into mush. But no. It was delicious.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/20927447360/in/dateposted-public/" nbsp="" title="Sensationally smokey and sweet prawns whose heads contained the most powerful 'prawn bisque' you can imagine at Asador Etxebarri"><img alt="Sensationally smokey and sweet prawns whose heads contained the most powerful 'prawn bisque' you can imagine at Asador Etxebarri" height="500" src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5646/20927447360_b4499bb0ce.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></o:p></div>
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Then came another highlight. Two enormous prawns. Wow. This
was massive. The flavour smashed like an Evander Holyfield punch and kept on
hitting. And biting. And nibbling. Messy. My heart missed a few beats. And my
breath quickened. These enormous, juicy prawns had been given the best send off
you can possibly imagine. Biting into the heads was like creating your own crab
bisque. But better. I can taste it all now, just writing about it. It’s worth
the price of the menu on its own. And the airfare. And the car hire too. I love
that they weren’t messed around with. No dipping sauce. No lemon. No herbs. No
garnish. Just. Two. Perfect. Prawns. Cooked over coals. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/21105456772/in/dateposted-public/" nbsp="" title="Smokey dinky octopus with an onion jam and their own ink at Asador Etxebarri #basque"><img alt="Smokey dinky octopus with an onion jam and their own ink at Asador Etxebarri #basque" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/591/21105456772_a2241b0376.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></o:p></div>
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Tiny octopus were served with a slick of their own ink and a
sweet and sour chutney. If it hadn’t been for the prawns I’d be waxing
hysterically lyrical about them. Again, the smoke was subtle, but there. Giving
them an ethereal tang that enhanced their natural flavour.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Scrambled egg with black truffles was another heart racer.
It reminded me of a meal in Croatia where I ate so many truffles on a steak
that I had to be pushed up a hill by Cowie back to our hotel. The truffles had
that petrol like power that makes you appreciate that you are eating the very
best. The egg was warm. Liquid. And hilariously un-PC for Cowie’s pregnant
state! Sorry Zennor.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/20927452400/in/dateposted-public/" nbsp="" title="Salt cod with an incredibly intense pepper sauce at Asador Etxebarri. By far the best salt cod I've encountered. #basque"><img alt="Salt cod with an incredibly intense pepper sauce at Asador Etxebarri. By far the best salt cod I've encountered. #basque" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/597/20927452400_e1001ae46c.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script> </o:p></div>
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A wedge of salt cod came next – glistening with its own
juices, like a glacier trickling away in the spring sun. I’ve been trying to
instill a love for salt cod into Cowie for quite some time, but to no effect,
but this dish was a revelation. A bacaloa epiphany. Soft, yielding, silky and
moist – it was perfect. And the red pepper sauce a cracking counterfoil. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/21115556065/in/dateposted-public/" nbsp="" title="The beef chop at Asador Etxebarri lived up to the intense hype and is worth the crazy journey. Rare; charred; smokey; juicy; firm fleshed; and super beefy. All steaks from now on are going to be second best. #basque"><img alt="The beef chop at Asador Etxebarri lived up to the intense hype and is worth the crazy journey. Rare; charred; smokey; juicy; firm fleshed; and super beefy. All steaks from now on are going to be second best. #basque" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/666/21115556065_151ed740fc.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></o:p></div>
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And then. The big show. The main event. The beef. Iconic.
Beautifully caremelised over coals. Stunningly rare. But still warm and juicy.
With all the fat rendered. Each mouthful seemed to get better. The firm flesh
was almost waxy in texture, but with a flavour that tasted intensely beefy.
Perfectly seasoned. It’s interesting to only be served protein and no
vegetables or sauces. The beef is allowed so moo for itself. The beasts are 7
year old dairy cows – which is very unusual. But it works. There’s something
brilliantly primeval about this dish. So uncomplicated. So reductive. It’s a
journey back in time to the first time humans ever ate meat. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/20492939254/in/dateposted-public/" nbsp="" title="Sour milk ice cream surrounded by an intense moat of beetroot. Think the milk was smoked. Immensely fresh, powerful and cleansing. #basque"><img alt="Sour milk ice cream surrounded by an intense moat of beetroot. Think the milk was smoked. Immensely fresh, powerful and cleansing. #basque" height="500" src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/749/20492939254_bdc7fe7b30.jpg" width="500" /></a><script async="" charset="utf-8" src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js"></script></o:p></div>
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A beetroot sorbet with freshly made buffalo milk ice cream
was a fitting finish. The sweet earthy notes of the beetroot balancing out the
sharp freshness of the ice cream.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Interestingly, it was the discovery of fire and cooking meat
over coals, that led to humans evolving far bigger brains. You could almost
taste this sociology lesson on the plate. Eating is about experiences. And this
experience, for me, had deep cultural significance. This trend away from
molecular gastronomy towards a more authentic, primeval form of cooking is
worth keeping an eye on. And as much as I loved all the fun of gels, foams and
spheres, there’s something deep and life affirming about the experience and
philosophy of Etxebarri.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We loved Etxebarri. We’d love to go back. And we’d love to
explore the valleys and mountains further as well. On our 40 minute drive back
to Bilboa airport I couldn’t help wondering whether there were any English
speaking ad agencies in the area who needed a planner! It’s such a beautiful
part of the world that we can’t wait to return to. Isn’t it nice when a dream
turns out to be real?<o:p></o:p></div>
Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-5551360636788966772015-06-08T17:04:00.000+01:002015-06-09T13:28:48.630+01:00Gourmet Stag Weekend in San Sebastian<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/17982585134" title="San Sebastián bay #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="San Sebastián bay #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/431/17982585134_0b6c10c56e.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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Food normally plays second or third fiddle on a stag weekend. The closest you normally come to nutrition is from your toothpaste or morning ration of paracetamol. I normally arrive home on a Sunday night with the cravings of a pregnant slug – lettuce and courgettes please. And maybe a radish on the side.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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So when Tom and Danny cooked up a trip to San Sebastian as a stag do, things looked up. Tom is a Donostia veteran, so had a very strong sense of where to go and what to eat. The closest we came to a burger or kebab was a particularly decadent sea urchin!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Others have written about the pintxos of San Sebastian far more comprehensively than I can. And in fact this blog post from <a href="http://www.thelondonfoodie.co.uk/2013/08/the-london-foodie-goes-to-spain-san.html" target="_blank">The LondonFoodie</a> actually covers a decent proportion of the places we visited. But here is an overview of my highlights. A series of pintxos postcards if you will.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g187457-d877927-Reviews-La_Cuchara_de_San_Telmo-San_Sebastian_Donostia_Guipuzcoa_Province_Basque_Country.html" target="_blank"><b>La Cuchara de San Telmo</b></a></div>
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We started at La Cuchara de San Telmo – which is comfortably my favourite pintxos haunt. Traditional, but imaginative, their food has a depth of flavour and quality of cooking that would grace any starred restaurant. And all served up from a kitchen the size of a downstairs loo. Just don’t try to go on a Monday. It’s shut.</div>
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<i>Veal Cheeks</i></div>
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18418982189" title="Veal cheeks with potato purée and am amazingly deep sauce #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Veal cheeks with potato purée and am amazingly deep sauce #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8831/18418982189_8db68ec42b.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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Our pintxos crawl started with a strong dose of Txakoli and large ration of decadent veal cheeks – which had been cooked in red wine and placed on a bed of creamy puree. Unctuous isn’t a word I use very often, but these cheeks should take the place of the definition of this word in the OED. Deep and decadent; they are the sine qua nom nom nom for how to make the most out of veal cheeks. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Pigs Trotters</i><br />
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18578772816" title="Trotters. Yum. #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Trotters. Yum. #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/531/18578772816_9d8612c24b.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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San Telmo is famous for their trotters. If they were any richer they’d be a Knightsbridge tax exile with a bastard son called Hubertus. Succulent doesn’t do them justice. There isn’t much “meat” per se. But the pickings you get are piggy bliss. The sherry vinegar glaze does its best to cut through the richness. But only some industrial strength hydrochloric acid could manage that. In fairness the Txakoli did a fair job in the place of the HCl.</div>
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<o:p><i>Salt Cod</i></o:p></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/17982505974" title="Confit salt cod #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Confit salt cod #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/411/17982505974_4864534c36.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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Salt cod seems to rear its caudal fin at every turn in San Sebastian. Here it flaked beautifully to reveal its pearly interior. The pepper puree was a perfect counterfoil and was possibly the only vegetable we came across for several hours of eating.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><i>Scallops with Ham Fat</i></o:p></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/17982524994" title="Scallops with a lardo cumber-belt #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Scallops with a lardo cumber-belt #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/383/17982524994_c62bff89a6.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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Scallops and salty pork are a well known match. But here they got taken to another level. The ham fat had little slivers of meat attached to it. But let’s be honest, it was there to act as a fatty cummerbund to the pristine white scallops. The only criticism is that it would be nice to crisp up the fat more. But I wouldn’t take that complaint terribly seriously. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.barzeruko.com/" target="_blank"><b>Bar Zeruko</b></a><o:p></o:p></div>
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Zeruko is one of San Sebastian’s molecular pintxos bars. Spherification, table theatre and whimsy pick up where San Telmo’s depth of flavour and traditional cooking left off. And it is great fun. But some of the dishes could have been cooked more sensitively.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Ceps and Egg</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18417435728" title="Ceps and a poached egg #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Ceps and a poached egg #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8875/18417435728_c533e57ace.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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Large slices of cep with a fried egg. Simple. And almost stunning. It just had a slightly acrid taste that you can get when something has caught slightly in the pan or on the plancha. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Smoke Your Own Cod</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18578809336" title="Smoking our own cod #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Smoking our own cod #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8867/18578809336_28faeed860.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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This was a lot of fun. You get presented with a miniature smoker with a piece of cod in bamboo tweezers which you then smoke until your heart is contented. All washed down with a green straw filled with a shot of herby goodness. This was one of our favourite dishes. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<i>Sea Urchin</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18607336231" title="Sea urchin #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Sea urchin #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/381/18607336231_19a474c575.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
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Rich. Decadent. And deeply sexual. This sea urchin didn’t take any prisoners. Enriched with béchamel and dressed with a herb oil, it redefined the word intensity. Put it this way; it tasted of how I image a brothel to smell. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Hake Throat</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18417529850" title="Hake throat with some cheeky foie gras #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Hake throat with some cheeky foie gras #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/363/18417529850_1bd337ce6b.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
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Or at least I think it was hake throat. Apparently it is a delicacy. Here it was served with foie gras and a film of caramel to add to the playful decadence. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i>Salt Cod with Fish Roe</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18607339631" title="Cod carpaccio #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Cod carpaccio #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/470/18607339631_7824a0b973.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
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Layers upon layers of salt cod with a cheeky topping of caviar and a dressing of balsamic vinegar sent us on our heady way from Zeruko smelling slightly of our own mini smoker. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://www.hidalgo56.com/" target="_blank"><b>Hidalgo 56</b></a><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Tripe<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/17982568754" title="Let there be tripe #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Let there be tripe #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8830/17982568754_9c46e887b1.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
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Tom insisted on us tucking into some tripe. I gallantly attempted to help. But I’ve got to admit, I find tripe a bit too ripe for my boring taste buds. Tom insists this is amongst the best tripe he’s had. And I can attest to the fact that it really does taste very authentically of cow stomach. Although which of the cow’s four stomachs I’m not so sure.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<i>Chanterelles with Scrambled Egg</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/17984574773" title="Chanterelles and eggs. One of the best things I've eaten in ages. #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Chanterelles and eggs. One of the best things I've eaten in ages. #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/378/17984574773_c4f76e4bc7.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
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Where I struggled with the tripe, I fell in love with the chanterelles and scrambled eggs. There’s nothing complicated about this dish. But it is sensational. Seasoned majestically. And scattered with parsley, it’s found its way into my psyche as my favourite mushroom dish of the year so far.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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After the rest of the stag do went home, Sarah came out for a couple of days to experience the delights of the Basque country. And whilst it isn’t terribly pregnancy friendly, we adored it. We stayed at <a href="https://www.hlondres.com/en/" target="_blank">Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra</a> which is perfectly positioned on the promenade, overlooking the cacophonous waves that smash the shoreline in perfect concentric surges of water. </div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18605257565" title="We are going to miss San Sebastián. Such an elegant, tasty and rainy bastion of the good life. #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="We are going to miss San Sebastián. Such an elegant, tasty and rainy bastion of the good life. #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8858/18605257565_e023e7b01e.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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As views go, they don’t get a lot better than this one from our hotel.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://www.restaurantegandarias.com/en/" target="_blank"><b>Taberna Gandarias</b></a></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
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If you are struggling for somewhere to eat on a Monday – because quite a few of the pintxos bars close their doors then – Gandarias is a good option. It is both a pintxos bar and restaurant. And is one of my favourites. We drank gallons of exceptional wine and sherry here whilst on the stag, but focused more on the food when it was just the two of us.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Sirloin with green peppers</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18417577950" title="Tiny steak #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Tiny steak #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/277/18417577950_a9dc37388c.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
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The juicy, pink, sweet steak was offset perfectly by the sweet bitterness of the green pepper and its salty anorak. I’m keen to scale this up to a full size dish once the summer arrives.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Squid with its Own Ink</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18605248565" title="Squid on a stick #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Squid on a stick #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/400/18605248565_3edc02902f.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
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Few things taste as good as super fresh squid cooked quickly. This was fabulous. And the inky sauce gave it loads of depth whilst making us look like our teeth were about to fall out.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Fake Elvers on Toast</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18600716022" title="Mini eels #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Mini eels #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8831/18600716022_3a6b0ff507.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
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Sadly not real elvers. But probably good for the environment. These little squiggly worms were delicious. And super garlicky.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>Octopus with Paprika</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18600928962" title="Octopussy #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Octopussy #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8852/18600928962_3af1b78afc.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
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Simple. Just slices of cold octopus with paprika, olive oil and seasoning. I’m not sure you could eat this and not realize what country you are in.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.barlacepa.com/es/index.php" target="_blank"><b>La Cepa</b></a><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/18417496748" title="Best jamon we've ever had at La Cepa #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Best jamon we've ever had at La Cepa #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8846/18417496748_9e0c97b061.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
La Cepa is to be found very close to San Telmo. Whilst I am sure their pintxos are good, it’s the jamon that we fell in love with. Nutty. Unctuous. Piggy. And with a mineral depth, it is now the ham I judge others against. It’s almost worth the airfare alone. And the beer taps are made from pig legs which is pretty cool.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g187457-d1863349-Reviews-La_Vina-San_Sebastian_Donostia_Guipuzcoa_Province_Basque_Country.html" target="_blank"><b>La Vina</b></a><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/17984566033" title="Cheesecake galore #sansebastian by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Cheesecake galore #sansebastian" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/301/17984566033_3f0b8b5cff.jpg" width="500" /></a></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
</o:p></div>
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I’m very embarrassed to say that we visited the mecca for Spanish cheesecake and didn’t try any. I haven’t really got an excuse. So forgive me. But here’s a photo of the best cheesecake I’ve ever seen – and not eaten. I am currently craving this cheesecake and a glass of PX sherry.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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This is just a taster of a city I simply cannot wait to return to. It’s such a civilised, cultured, delicious place that has its priorities straight. Thank you Tom for organizing such a marvelous stag do. And well done Dan for being such a good egg. Let’s hope you call your first child Sebastian.<o:p></o:p></div>
Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-22672864994541410212015-04-30T14:48:00.000+01:002015-04-30T14:54:50.766+01:00ABC Kitchen<div class="MsoNormal">
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<br />
Nestled into the ABC interior
design store is the <a href="http://www.abchome.com/eat/abc-kitchen/" target="_blank">ABC Kitchen</a>. It’s like Petersham Nurseries has had a love
child with the Grain Store, a catwalk show and a Conran design shop. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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After a couple of very firm recommendations (thanks Suz and
Gav) we popped in for a light lunch and had our snow boots blown off. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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After a lot of oohing, ahhing and penny counting we decided
to forgo the exciting menu items and go for the set lunch. Often this is a
disastrous idea. But not here.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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My cauliflower soup was stunning to look at. And tasty in
equal measure. The sourdough croutons added a lovely crunch and the chives and
herbs were very well balanced. But the real stars were the little morsels of goat’s
cheese that acted as gourmet depth charges.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="500" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/16699277834/in/photostream/player/" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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Cowie’s carrot salad was one of the highlights of our trip
to New York. ‘Carrot Salad’ sounds so pedestrian. It was anything but. The
carrots had been roasted to a sweetness normally reserved for fruit and then
juxtaposed with a strong handful of spices and salad. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="500" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/17114301107/in/photostream/player/" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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My main course of slow cooked Spanish mackerel wasn’t what I
expected. It was everything mackerel often isn’t. Soft, sweet and juicy. Greae
free and almost like salmon in consistency. It didn’t have the metallic tang
that can often dominate. Cucumbers and a light sauce worked wonders. It was as
if as Skye Gyngell had been in the kitchen. Interestingly, one of her books was
on sale in the design shop next door.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="500" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/17114297597/in/photostream/player/" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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Cowie’s egg yolk and ricotta raviolo with a game ragu was a joyous
explosion of sunny decadence. Dusted with parmesan it growled of umami. And
screamed with delight. If it was a Sex and the City character, it would be
Samantha after a hormone injection. <o:p></o:p></div>
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In a city full of gutsy macho eating, the ABC Kitchen is a
graceful, serene, fresh, considered, stylish, oasis of lightness. But with
enough guts to stop it being a fashion show.<o:p></o:p></div>
Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-18135773265147707572015-04-16T15:22:00.001+01:002015-04-16T15:38:19.073+01:00Bánh Xèo<div class="MsoNormal">
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<br />
Our submission for this year’s pancake competition had a Vietnamese flavour. When we were in Ho Chi Minh city we fell in love with their Bánh Xèo. These enormous crispy, Simpsons coloured pancakes are stuffed with prawns, pork, bean sprouts and mint and are then wrapped in lettuce and rice paper, before being dipped in nuoc cham. Our favourite was this monster in Ho Chi Minh City which was the size of a satellite dish and as crispy as a Pringle.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="500" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/16545012744/player/" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />
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We learned that Bánh Xèo is an onomatopoeic word that connotes the sizzling or crackling sound you hear when you make one. The batter is a mixture of rice flour, coconut milk and turmeric which fries in a way that leaves a pock marked surface similar to baddy’s face in Licence to Kill.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We found it took longer to cook the pancake than a traditional English version. But the patience was rewarded with a crispy shell to take on the filling. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We opted for a chicken and prawn filling instead of pork and prawn. You could just as easily use oriental mushrooms if you fancied a change. It’s important to marinade the ingredients in fish sauce, lemongrass, garlic, chilli and ginger first to infuse the flavour. Then fry away with some spring onions and keep warm whilst you make the pancake.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Ingredients:</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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For pancakes<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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200g rice flour<o:p></o:p></div>
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Half a can of coconut milk<o:p></o:p></div>
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200ml water<o:p></o:p></div>
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2 teaspoons of turmeric powder<o:p></o:p></div>
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Pinch of salt<o:p></o:p></div>
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Coconut oil for frying<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Pancake filling<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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4 chicken thighs<o:p></o:p></div>
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2 cloves of garlic – finely sliced<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 lemongrass stem – finely sliced<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 chilli – finely sliced<o:p></o:p></div>
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Large thumb of ginger – grated <o:p></o:p></div>
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Big slug of fish sauce<o:p></o:p></div>
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150 g prawns<o:p></o:p></div>
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Handful of mint<o:p></o:p></div>
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Bean sprouts<o:p></o:p></div>
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Palm sugar<o:p></o:p></div>
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Lime<o:p></o:p></div>
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Coconut oil for frying</div>
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<br /></div>
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Nuoc cham dipping sauce<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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100ml fish sauce<o:p></o:p></div>
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50ml lime juice<o:p></o:p></div>
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3 finely sliced red chillies <o:p></o:p></div>
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1 teaspoon of palm sugar<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 clove of finely chopped garlic <o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Method:</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Marinade the filling ingredients in fish sauce, ginger, lemongrass, garlic and chilli for half an hour. Then fry till cooked. Add the marinade towards the end to cook off. And some palm sugar. This should form a nice sticky sauce. Keep warm.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Whisk the rice flour, coconut milk, salt and turmeric together with the water to form a batter. Allow to rest for a bit.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Then add some coconut oil and groundnut oil to a frying pan and when hot add a spoonful of batter. The batter should fizz and crackle. It should also look pockmarked.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Once set and crispy on the other side, give it a careful flip. Because these are lacking in gluten they aren’t as stretchy so be a bit more cautious at this stage.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Serve the pancake, bent in half with the filling spooned in, like a taco. Then plate up with a wedge of lime, some bean sprouts, mint, and extra chillies.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And a little bowl of nuoc cham to dip into.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="500" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/16947001008/player/" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />
<br /></div>
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If you wanted to be extra authentic you could wrap the pancake in rice pancakes – but, they are just as nice on their own I think. And a lot less fiddly.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="500" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/16512343114/player/" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe><br />
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Some nice people from <a href="http://www.robersonwine.com/" target="_blank">Roberson Wines</a> gave us a bottle of <a href="http://www.conosur.com/wines/single-vineyard-riesling/" target="_blank">Cono Sur Single Estate Chilean Reisling</a> which paired perfectly with the Bánh Xèo. Fresh enough to slice through the complex flavours and rich enough to cope with the hint of spice. Not bad for £9 a bottle.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-39124015373178730662014-12-17T13:23:00.000+00:002015-06-09T12:57:00.656+01:00Bread, by Dean Brettschneider<div class="MsoNormal">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Us6YzE621fKFFP0xFhZCuVIH9cOmSHbMFLf4WWiFdZRQ48zdqp0IBgCbABzeIr-nJEja4_QACOMBG0IXvggGtJqj7bnQb2_5d5mczJMvrCnFAUGC5Okwl-Fa8p9FOv9tzA3gWtkULY8K/s1600/Bread.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Us6YzE621fKFFP0xFhZCuVIH9cOmSHbMFLf4WWiFdZRQ48zdqp0IBgCbABzeIr-nJEja4_QACOMBG0IXvggGtJqj7bnQb2_5d5mczJMvrCnFAUGC5Okwl-Fa8p9FOv9tzA3gWtkULY8K/s1600/Bread.jpg" width="268" /></a></div>
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I’ve become obsessed with baking bread. People have asked me
whether it is just a phase and it has made me wonder. But I think that it is
something that we’ll do forever. The process of kneading, proving, baking, carving,
toasting and eating is becoming second nature. And the bread itself is getting
more interesting, more consistent and occasionally experimental. When we go
away on holiday I take the starter with me so long as we aren’t flying. And
when we do fly, I just hope it survives the break in the fridge.<o:p></o:p></div>
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My regular loaf is a rye loaf mixed with strong white flour
with a handful of pumpkin seeds and occasionally some caraway. It’s really easy
and the fact that it is quite rye heavy makes it quite easy to prove and bake.
It’s a little stalwart. It’s neat and reliable. And it toasts beautifully. I
just use Dan Lepard’s Rye and Barley recipe from his <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Handmade-Loaf-Contemporary-Recipes-Baker/dp/1845333896/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418822127&sr=8-3&keywords=dan+lepard" target="_blank">Handmade Loaf</a> book (250g
starter, 300g strong white flour, 200g rye flour, 300g water).<o:p></o:p></div>
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So when I got an email asking if I’d like to review a bread
baking book I was rather excited. Bread by Dean Brettschneider, published by Jacqui
Small is a very attractive book. The photography is stunning in a way that many
baking books are not. And the instructions from Dean Brettschneider are very
clear and authoritative. Although they differ at times from what I’ve learned
from Dan Lepard, they give you confidence that you are doing things right. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The first loaf that jumped out of me from Brettschneider’s book was his Dark German Rye Loaf. One glimpse of this Onyx loaf took me straight back to our communal
breakfasts in Sweden where we would slather sweet mustard on black rye bread
with a slice of Vasterbotten cheese and some smoked ham. <o:p></o:p></div>
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These dark breads, for me, are doughy nirvana. They go deep
where our English white sliced barely scratches the surface. They are the polar
opposite of baguette and speak to a completely different world view. A philosophy
of perseverance; resilience; slowness; hard graft; depth; gnarly character; and
satisfaction.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/15699873081" title="Dark Danish rye bread by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Dark Danish rye bread" height="500" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3950/15699873081_20da5c1a4d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/16042526055" title="Dark German rye #balhambaking by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Dark German rye #balhambaking" height="500" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7494/16042526055_a6001d33bb.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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I followed the recipe to the letter and was rewarded with
the best loaf I have baked to date. It is fabulous fresh or even better toasted
with marmalade, smoked mackerel pate, slices of hard cheese or, heroically a
slice of salted butter to contrast against the darkness.</div>
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His trick is to soak rye flakes and sunflower seeds in hot water separately from the dough mixture. And to add cocoa to rye sourdough dough mixture which is surprisingly heavy on strong white flower. Grate in some carrot. Add some malt extract, some salt and some more water and then combine after a few hours of proving. It works like a treat. Just make sure you allow it to cool properly before giving in to carving it. This will allow the dough to 'set' and not tear when you carve it.</div>
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I’ve since experimented with replacing the warm water that
the grains are soaked in with coffee which has led to even darker breads with
even more flavour. If you do go down the coffee route, you need to add a bit of
extra malt extract or honey to counteract the bitterness. And Edwin inspired replacing the rye flakes with Dorset Cereal Muesli which worked very well too. The raisins and nuts made it a great breakfast loaf.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/16041813172" title="White sourdough destined for a bacon sandwich by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="White sourdough destined for a bacon sandwich" height="500" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7551/16041813172_9cf1030b78.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/15855072688" title="Poppy seed sourdough. First loaf since returning home from 2 weeks away. Starter seems to have been energised by the break. #balhambaking #breadbore by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Poppy seed sourdough. First loaf since returning home from 2 weeks away. Starter seems to have been energised by the break. #balhambaking #breadbore" height="500" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7510/15855072688_b6f00b5bff.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/16042523655" title="Crumbs! #breadbore #balhambaking by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Crumbs! #breadbore #balhambaking" height="500" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7530/16042523655_fd3183536f.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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Dean’s white sourdough loaf recipe is also a corker. Where I’d
previously struggled with my dough sticking to the bannetons and less airiness
that I’d hope for, Dean’s recipe has yielded nothing but fluffy, loaves with
big bubbles and lots of flavour. One of his best tips is to make sure your starter has been greedily fed 8 hours before baking. I've found this has turbo charged my loaves.<o:p></o:p></div>
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If you are serious about baking bread, I can recommend Bread,
by <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bread-Dean-Brettschneider/dp/1909342777/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418822055&sr=8-1&keywords=Dean+Brettschneider" target="_blank">Dean Brettschneider</a> wholeheartedly.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-10452447156709344852014-11-13T18:06:00.001+00:002015-06-09T12:59:34.236+01:00Waitrose Christmas Cake<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw_fMugagvabwWrQBYg4orDnrth5YRPm6dKGEb7-EZK66l8JDrKjmrDjlhZlRlqV7S-QUX7Cqr8iP16S6RLxFGX2FNGNW0klJXPhh_4AXb-vakbxO8axQB0domR9maeEd9vk_wXCdW_ln2/s1600/photo+5.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw_fMugagvabwWrQBYg4orDnrth5YRPm6dKGEb7-EZK66l8JDrKjmrDjlhZlRlqV7S-QUX7Cqr8iP16S6RLxFGX2FNGNW0klJXPhh_4AXb-vakbxO8axQB0domR9maeEd9vk_wXCdW_ln2/s400/photo+5.JPG" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
The good people of <a href="http://www.waitrose.com/shop/ProductView-10317-10001-230983-Waitrose+Christmas+Cake+Kit">Waitrose sent me a wonderful box last year full of the ingredients needed to make a Christmas cake</a>. Normal life has got the better of me until now and prevented me from finding time to write about it. But now, I find myself next to a belching chap from Chicago with time on my hands.<br />
<br />
My father in law got rather excited last Autumn and decide he would turn the otherwise sedate making of a Christmas cake into a competition. He turned to Delia for inspiration as I reached for my little box of magic from Waitrose. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7xF34kICzlyUnoWX11s1_h88f1CdtCBxvBxVvA-ekaBgcUhxC1d0j5-tOImXMy9hGyyIlgZokEfwArxwNLdfq8H2_r612Py7fst0wrivm6R-UfCZ90USaVELTEfiM7si4he-mnF7QupCA/s1600/photo+4.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7xF34kICzlyUnoWX11s1_h88f1CdtCBxvBxVvA-ekaBgcUhxC1d0j5-tOImXMy9hGyyIlgZokEfwArxwNLdfq8H2_r612Py7fst0wrivm6R-UfCZ90USaVELTEfiM7si4he-mnF7QupCA/s400/photo+4.JPG" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
I decided to jazz my Christmas cake up by adding dried figs soaked in Stone’s Ginger Wine for an extra kick of spiced booze. It’s a little supplement that worked well and gave the cake extra longevity. That said, it did mean that on Christmas day it was still a bit juicy!<br />
<br />
So with Christmas only 7 weeks away, it’s probably time to get soaking, stirring and baking. Don’t be afraid to add a few extra goodies. It’s a good way of using up mystery brown spirits and fortified wines. <br />
<br />
Thank you to Waitrose. And sorry it’s taken a year to write about it. I figured a Christmas cake story between January and September would have been a bit weird.<br />
<br />
Needless to say, thank you Waitrose. It's not quite time to say Merry Christmas yet, but it has certainly got me in the mood for some festive baking.Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-28715434296437281462014-11-03T16:48:00.000+00:002015-06-09T13:17:11.740+01:00Sherry Addled Spanish Pigs' Cheeks<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/15701795395" title="Pigs cheeks in their sticky sherry sauce again for night 2 of our foray into restauranting @themoveablefeastpopup by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Pigs cheeks in their sticky sherry sauce again for night 2 of our foray into restauranting @themoveablefeastpopup" height="500" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7531/15701795395_acd77f5ac2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Pork and sherry is a fine combination. Especially when the sherry is sweet and the pork falls apart like a sous vide ponzi scheme. The sweetness of the pork is exaggerated and at once tempered by the oleaginous lusciousness of the sherry. And even more so as it reduces with onions and a touch of paprika. It would be lazy to say it tastes of Spain. But maybe Spain tastes of it. It becomes syrupy and, whilst sweet, also savoury and deep. A bit like a grandfather telling a long story full of unnecessary details and the occasional sentimental Catherine wheel of warmth.<br />
<br />
So when Cowie and I were planning our main course for our pop up we found that pigs cheeks cooked in sherry was at the top of our list. It needed to be something that could be cooked in advance and reheated. Something where the prep was done way in advance and the flavours could mature. Something luxurious and generous, but not flashy.<br />
<br />
In order to feed 60 we ordered 200 pigs’ cheeks from <a href="http://www.kimbersfarmshop.co.uk/">Kimber’s near Wincaton</a>. Their first class farm shop is responsible for us acquiring a chest freezer for our house in London. Whenever we go down to Somerset we always seem to come away with unusual cuts of fabulous meat. We can’t recommend them enough and pretty much live off their pork rissoles have a serious soft spot for their goose skirt and Jacob’s Ladder.<br />
<br />
We decided to slow cook the pigs’ cheeks in a mixture of medium dry sherry and Pedro Ximinex sherry along with a large quantity of caremelised onions which had been given a warm bath in sherry as well. Aside from some seasoning and a touch of paprika and garlic all they needed was a good searing and then a long burble in the sherry.<br />
<br />
Served on their own, they would be in danger of being a bit too deep, so a gremolata made with lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil and parsley brings them to life. And some toasted almonds bring out the nutty notes of the pork and savory nature of the sherry. They also add a nice bit of crunch.<br />
<br />
The secret is to strain off the sherry liquor once the cheeks are cooked and to reduce it to a sticky sauce, brightened up with sherry vinegar as you see fit. Taste it regularly as you reduce it so you balance the acidity and the sweetness. It really is a killer sauce and if you have too much you can use it as a fabulous sauce with game. We had it with some grouse recently and loved it. Likewise it would grace a bavette or a haunch of venison. Guard it. And admire the way it sets to a wobbly dark brown jelly. It’s not looker.<br />
<br />
Celeriac mash and some greens is all you need to go with this. Enjoy it. It’s our favourite dish.<br />
<br />
<b>Ingredients to feed 4<br />
</b><br />
12 pigs cheeks with the membrane removed (Allow 3 cheeks per person. You just want the nugget of meat that butchers sometimes call the pillow)<br />
Flour to dust cheeks<br />
10 onions<br />
4 cloves of chopped garlic (smoked would be extra nice)<br />
1 bottle of medium dry sherry<br />
200ml of Pedro Ximinez sherry<br />
(Prunes, dried figs and dates are all nice optional extras)<br />
Sherry vinegar to taste<br />
1 celeriac<br />
1 teaspoon smoked paprika<br />
200g potatoes<br />
100g toasted almonds<br />
Courgettes<br />
Salt and pepper<br />
<br />
<b>Method</b><br />
<br />
Season the flour and dust the cheeks.<br />
<br />
Sear the cheeks in a hot pan with a good slug of olive oil. Do this in batches. And if they catch loosen them with some of the medium dry sherry. Add this to the slow cooker.<br />
<br />
Then fry the onions slowly until they caramelise. At this point add the garlic and smoked paprika. Add PX sherry towards the end of the frying. Add this to the slow cooker.<br />
<br />
Pour over as much sherry as is needed to cover the pigs cheeks. Add 2 bay leaves. Grind in some pepper. <br />
<br />
Leave to slow cook for 3 to 4 hours – or until the cheeks are cooked. You want them to retain their shape and not go mushy.<br />
<br />
At this stage, make some celeriac and potato mash, steam some courgettes or greens. <br />
<br />
Also, make a gremolata. Zest 2 lemons. Finely chop 100g parsley. Squeeze two lemons into a bowl with the first two ingredients. Add salt. Add pepper. Glug in some olive oil. Stir. Taste. You want it to taste as sharp and clean as a Japanese knife. It should have almost metallic cleanliness to it that sets off the dark, unctuousness of the pork and sherry.<br />
<br />
When the cheeks are cooked strain off the liquor. Add it to a large saucepan and reduce aggressively. Stir. And taste frequently. Add a good splash of sherry vinegar to add some acidity and life to the sauce. This stops it getting too heavy.<br />
<br />
You will need to reduce for some time. The stickier the sauce is the better. When it is nice and syrupy take it off the heat and put it in a jug.<br />
<br />
Serve with the mash, and veg with 3 cheeks covered in sherry sauce. Then slurp over a spoonful of vibrant gremolata and scatter over some toasted almonds.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/15516607497" title="Pigs cheeks in a sticky PX sherry sauce with gremolata, toasted almonds and celeriac mash @themoveablefeastpopup by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Pigs cheeks in a sticky PX sherry sauce with gremolata, toasted almonds and celeriac mash @themoveablefeastpopup" height="500" src="https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7491/15516607497_fb38a0ef02.jpg" width="500" /></a>Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-16029531376536718182014-10-14T17:17:00.005+01:002015-06-09T13:16:58.831+01:00Chilled Hedgerow Soup<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/15494573435" title="Chilled hedgerow soup (elderberry and blackberry) @themoveablefeastpopup by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Chilled hedgerow soup (elderberry and blackberry) @themoveablefeastpopup" height="500" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3954/15494573435_2d9d84c93e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
It’s a time of year I associate with Sylvia Plath’s poem Blackberrying. A lament about a summer gone. It’s one of my favourite poems – albeit lacerated with allusions and symbolism that would have given Freud a nervous breakdown.<br />
<br />
<b>BLACKBERRYING – Sylvia Plath</b> <br />
<br />
Nobody in the lane, and nothing, nothing but blackberries, <br />
Blackberries on either side, though on the right mainly,<br />
A blackberry alley, going down in hooks, and a sea<br />
Somewhere at the end of it, heaving. Blackberries<br />
Big as the ball of my thumb, and dumb as eyes<br />
Ebon in the hedges, fat<br />
With blue-red juices. These they squander on my fingers.<br />
I had not asked for such a blood sisterhood; they must love me.<br />
They accommodate themselves to my milkbottle, flattening their sides.<br />
<br />
Overhead go the choughs in black, cacophonous flocks—<br />
Bits of burnt paper wheeling in a blown sky.<br />
Theirs is the only voice, protesting, protesting.<br />
I do not think the sea will appear at all.<br />
The high, green meadows are glowing, as if lit from within.<br />
I come to one bush of berries so ripe it is a bush of flies,<br />
Hanging their bluegreen bellies and their wing panes in a Chinese screen.<br />
The honey-feast of the berries has stunned them; they believe in heaven. <br />
One more hook, and the berries and bushes end.<br />
<br />
The only thing to come now is the sea.<br />
From between two hills a sudden wind funnels at me, <br />
Slapping its phantom laundry in my face.<br />
These hills are too green and sweet to have tasted salt.<br />
I follow the sheep path between them. A last hook brings me <br />
To the hills’ northern face, and the face is orange rock <br />
That looks out on nothing, nothing but a great space <br />
Of white and pewter lights, and a din like silversmiths <br />
Beating and beating at an intractable metal.<br />
<br />
This is my favourite time of year. The air is clear. The humidity has gone. The warmth of the summer is still floating around. Apples are weighing down branches like Christmas shoppers staggering home with gift. And one of the most hostile bullies in the hedgerow suddenly turns friendly for a few weeks offering inky berries as a peace offering for the bicycle punctures, scratches and bleeding they’ve caused throughout the rest of the year.<br />
<br />
Our first forage of the year was on Tooting Common which turned into 5 jars of beautiful Blackberry jam. I’m slapping it all over my toast and will keep a jar back for an Autumn Mess at some point soon.<br />
<br />
Our second forage was a more industrious affair. Me, Sarah and my mother in law collected about 4kg of blackberries and a similar amount of elderberries from the winding lanes of deepest darkest Somerset. We came back home blanketed in midge bites, needled by nettles and tortured by thorns. But it was worth it for the amount of inky treasure we brought home.<br />
<br />
We found it curious that the best elders grow near telegraph poles. We came up with various explanations about why this was the case. Was it the electromagnetic field of the wires? Was it the Creosote? Was it the extra moisture that drips down the pole? No. It’s because when the hedges are cut the tractors avoid chopping down the telegraph poles and the elder survives. So if you are looking for elder, telegraph poles are your friends.<br />
<br />
At our wedding we had a Swedish inspired pre-dessert of chilled fruit soup served in coffee cups. <a href="http://theflavoursmith.co.uk/">Tom (AKA the Flavoursmith)</a> made it from a range of dark summer fruits including blackberries and blackcurrants. We’ve been keen to make something similar ourselves, but just using the spoils of our hedgerow plunder. <br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/15308551688" title="Very black blackberries by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Very black blackberries" height="500" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3931/15308551688_606ecd0a44.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/15307922918" title="Inky hedgerow treasure by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Inky hedgerow treasure" height="500" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5598/15307922918_7b257cc8ac.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/15307663529" title="Elderberries by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Elderberries" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2950/15307663529_c75b811ba0.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/15307923748" title="Elderberry ballbearings by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Elderberry ballbearings" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2945/15307923748_76fb4e9506.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Without really following a recipe we stripped off the elderberries using the tines of a fork, rinsed all the fruit and then added it to a massive cauldron with one litre of water and about a dozen large apples that had fallen off the tree to give it some body. We let it simmer away for a few hours on a low heat until all the berries had given up their juice.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/15491426351" title="Inky hedgerow soup @themoveablefeastpopup by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Inky hedgerow soup @themoveablefeastpopup" height="500" src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3946/15491426351_17ff59c55c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
It looked like an experimental Ribena laboratory. And smelled amazingly of autumn. Although elder berries don’t taste that strong, they did give the flavor and extra layer of complexity and an extraordinary colour of pure purple.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/15307924598" title="Wallace and Grommit approach to making hedgerow soup by Jonathan Brown, on Flickr"><img alt="Wallace and Grommit approach to making hedgerow soup" height="500" src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2947/15307924598_329d3e025f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
We then strained the soup through a large sieve to remove the large pips. And then passed it all through jelly bags which took ages! But it was worth it for the purity of the liquor and the absence of pesky pips.<br />
<br />
We then returned the liquid to the cleaned out cauldron and added enough sugar to take the sour edge off and then cooled. It’s a labour of love. But it’s worth it.<br />
<br />
Chill and serve in espresso cups. Allow about 100-150ml per person. And if you have any left over it is great as a cordial with fizzy water. Or better still as the base to an ice cream. We've got an enormous vat of it in the freezer which we keep dipping into for midnight snacks.Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-72502028760632085842014-08-22T16:30:00.000+01:002014-08-22T16:39:56.351+01:00Sourdough Virginity<iframe src="//instagram.com/p/oQJEdcOhZ8/embed/" width="400" height="500" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" allowtransparency="true"></iframe><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">I’ve been boring the noble people of Instagram for the last two months with highly sexed up pictures of bread that I’ve reared from hand, fresh out of the oven. The early ones were erratic and rustic, with the occasional scorched bottom and dense crumb. Some have been a funny green colour from courgette juice. And others an alarming shade of maroon from beetroot juice. Slowly but surely these sourdough loaves have improved. The crumb lighter. The crust crisper and chewier. And the most recent loaves have even got smart concentric circles on them from the bannetone which I’ve been misusing for the last month! But they have all been delicious. And even the burnt ones have been tastier than anything you’d normally buy from a shop.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">It’s safe to say that I’ve become hooked on baking sourdough bread. It might well be sign of a quarter life crisis. But actually it’s been a very therapeutic experience. Most things in modern life involve instant gratification – photos get instantaneous likes and comments on Instagram; emails get responded to promptly; Snapchat messages only last seconds. Whereas making bread from scratch with a sourdough starter is soulful and takes pretty much a whole day of respect and careful attention. Haste, rush, speed and hurry simply aren’t possible when making bread. Baking is a miraculous balm to modern life’s sting.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">It all started with a terrible loaf of bread that I made during a short trip to Whitstable made with fast action yeast and not very much skill. It bubbled away and ossified into a loaf with the texture and density of depleted uranium that had been compressed by the weight of an ice age. An airy, light, bouncy loaf it was not.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Irked and inspired in equal measure I decided to try to make my own starter. It seems like a rite of passage for anyone who is a bit of a food nerd. Dan Lepard has been my wingman ever since. Along with a sprinkling of advice from a Guardian article that suggested using rhubarb as part of the initial mix.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">All we did was to mix 100g rye flour with 100g water and about 50g of finely sliced rhubarb from the garden. And then we undertook the very arduous task of leaving it for 5 days in a loosely covered jar. I think we may have stirred it on day 4 when it got a bit moldy. But that was it. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Then on day 6 we simply poured half of the acidic smelling gloop away and added 100g rye flour and 100g of water and left it for 6 hours whilst it doubled in size. And then we made our first loaf very simple loaf using Dan Lepard’s method. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The quantities below are for the first small loaf we made, using half measures from Dan Lepard’s Barley and Rye Loaf in the Handmade Loaf, which has become my baking bible. These ratios seem to work for all manner of loaves.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Mix together 125g starter, 250g flour, 150g water and a teaspoon of salt. Leave to autolyse for 10 minutes. Then knead for 20 seconds using sunflower oil to stop it sticking to your hands and work surfaces. Then leave it. Half an hour later knead it again. And then leave it for an hour. Then knead it again and leave it to prove on a baking tray with some oiled clingfirm on top. <br />
<br />
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Once it has doubled in size sprinkle with flour, shape it, slash the top with a bread knife and bake in a preheated oven with a roasting pan of water in the bottom to generate steam at 200 degrees C for 40 minutes. When golden and with a crisp bottom remove nad allow to cool on a wire wrack. Give into temptation and slice. Smear on butter and marvel at your first loaf. I swear nothing has ever, or will ever taste as good as your first mouthful of your own sourdough loaf.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">Since that virgin loaf I’ve advanced the technique. Now the loaf is proved in a banettone (wicker basket), which is my new favourite word. However, only last week did I realise that the muslin cloth it comes with is designed to act as a hat not a lining! Whoops. The bread as a result now has lovely concentric circles of crusty semolina flour as decoration, rather than looking like it’s slept on a rather course pillow.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">We’ve also got the hang of preheating the oven enough and even found a slab of marble in the garden that is the perfect size for the oven. It now acts as our baking stone. I’m convinced the people who used to live in our house must have had it cut to size because it fits like Cinderella’s shoe. The marble slab takes longer to heat up, but it is giving the loaves more bounce and a better rise, but without burning the bottom.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">We’ve also got more confident at playing around with ingredients. We’ve discovered via some vegetable experimentation that you can substitute the water in a bread recipe for vegetable juice. So we’ve been juicing our glut of beetroot, chard and courgettes as the means of hydration for the bread. You can also add some of the pulp to the dough, balanced out with a bit more flour to get the right moisture ratios. The results of this have been great. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal">The bread takes on a great colour and flavor in the case of beetroot and really helps to keep the otherwise quite dense rye loaves very moist and lively.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I always like anise flavours with beetroot, so caraway and fennel seeds are a perfect match. It’s great with salted butter on it’s own. Amazing with marmite. And is a revelation with smoked mackerel pate.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The courgette juice and pulp loaves blend in nicely and just give a hint of background sweetness and a very pleasant moistness to the crumb. Mixed through with pumpkin seeds it makes for a fantastic loaf. The colour is less vivid than the beetroot, but it still makes for a fine looking loaf that’s got plenty of character. Subtle.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">I’ve also started adding in the salt during the second knead. It seems to be working well. But, it has meant that I’ve made a couple of saltless loaves which have been irritating, but still tasty. <o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal">This baking journey has only been going for 2 months. But I’m hooked. And really hope I’m still doing it with the same starter in 2 decades time. I’m determined to make a super light white loaf with enormous holes and to master the dark arts of German pumpernickel with it’s treacle like demeanour. And I’m also keen to perfect some gluten free loaves for my new colleagues at work. If you’ve got any sourdough suggestions to try out, please let me know.<o:p></o:p></div>Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-76995651515921720712013-11-13T15:04:00.001+00:002013-11-13T15:04:49.417+00:00The Night Riviera to Cornwall<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/9140212051/" title="Sleeper to Cornwall-4 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Sleeper to Cornwall-4" height="300" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7415/9140212051_80492e9a35.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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As the <a href="http://www.firstgreatwestern.co.uk/Your-journey/Night-Riviera-Sleeper" target="_blank">Night Riviera</a> pulled out of Paddington our weekend began with a hiss of kissing steel and a clunk of clacking couplings. Our berths were like Japanese boutique hotel rooms – except on a train. They would have been futuristic once – but there’s something even more charming about the way they hark back to another era of long distance train travel. To a life more civilised. </div>
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Our suite had two bunks, a sink, a dinky ladder, air conditioning and wonderfully static sheets that flickered and glowed when you shuffled around in the dark like the Northern Lights. After some free tea and shortbread in the dining cart we turned in for the night and awoke to a bacon sandwich and a cup of tea at Truro at 6.45am.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We had left the gloom and bustle of London behind us and alighted at piratey Penzance, squinting, as we were stunned by the azure brilliance of the iridescent Atlantic. Our 4 mile cycle to Mousehole, through the fishing port of Newlyn followed the coast and filled our lungs with sushi fresh air and our ears with the rhythmic cacophony of seagulls and trawlers. We felt a million miles from Paddington and felt like bottling the air and sounds in one of his marmalade jars.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/9140212917/" title="Sleeper to Cornwall-15 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Sleeper to Cornwall-15" height="300" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7458/9140212917_9c1b1e9019.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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By 8.15 we had been welcomed into the <a href="http://www.oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk/" target="_blank">Old Coastguard</a> as if they had just realised we were The Ancient Mariner and ushered our alarmingly Lycra clad bodies into the breakfast room where we feasted on locally smoked kippers, home made yoghurt and Cornish tea. I am sure being able to see the sea makes a kipper taste even better. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/9142441294/" title="Sleeper to Cornwall-10 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Sleeper to Cornwall-10" height="300" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3783/9142441294_58abdd4503.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/9140212655/" title="Sleeper to Cornwall-18 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Sleeper to Cornwall-18" height="300" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/9140212655_cce89946ac.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/9140211673/" title="Sleeper to Cornwall-7 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Sleeper to Cornwall-7" height="300" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2890/9140211673_cd9ca5e7c9.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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With the sun beaming down we set out on a 60 mile cycling loop that tracked west through Lamorna to Lands End before heading onto St. Just and then through the majestic moorlands either side of Zennor. It was like cycling through a Rapha photoshoot – except with more sweat and a much less successful posing. We watched as seagulls remorselessly followed a tractor as it ploughed a field that dropped off into the Atlantic. We waited as a cocky cockerel stopped the traffic as he ambled across the “main” road. We nodded at fellow cyclist. And they nodded back.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We paused at the <a href="http://www.gurnardshead.co.uk/" target="_blank">Gurnard’s Head</a> for a gawp at their lunch menu – and I am still torn between the roast turbot with truffles and the blade of beef with wild mushrooms. But it would have been a bit indulgent considering I’d just had a big breakfast, and that it was only 11am! <o:p></o:p></div>
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At St. Ives we stopped for a pasty and a cup of tea before escaping the tourists and heading through the delightful backroads around St. Erth where we climbed over the central hills where we were confronted by St. Michael’s Mount erupting out of the shimmering bay.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We continued along the coast and back to Mousehole and felt any sense of stress from London flutter away. It’s a spectacular coastline and a privilege to be able to cycling along it.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/9140212833/" title="Sleeper to Cornwall-16 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Sleeper to Cornwall-16" height="300" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3790/9140212833_b725608fbc.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
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Dinner at the Old Coastguard was just as good as we’d hoped. Given that it is the latest addition to the East Sleep Drink family whose siblings are the Gurnard’s Head and Felin Fach Griffin – we had high hopes. You won’t find many better views than here to accompany a pre-dinner drink and a game of Scrabble. I’m gushing – but it really was magical.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Cowie’s pork belly starter was sticky, soft and unctuously coated with an oriental marinade. And my crab rarebit was gutsy and craby without being prissy. These weren’t mind-blowingly-original dishes, but they were refreshingly un-twee and intelligently crafted. And given how far we were from London they felt spot on.<o:p></o:p></div>
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For fear of food envy we, unusually, both chose their fish stew. It came laced with (possibly Cornish) saffron and a tangy aioli and swimming with ling, cod, squid and mussels – all bound together in a richly seasoned tomato bisque and spiked with fennel. We sent our bowls back so clean that they could probably have been able to bypass the washing up machine. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Cowie’s cheesecake was good without being thrilling – with the indecently juicy figs stealing the show. But my pistachio and yoghurt cake wouldn’t have been out of place at Moro. It’s the kind of pudding that makes you wish you had hollow legs.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We eventually carried our weary limbs to bed for a sleep that seemed to last forever – before returning for a repeat of the previous day’s breakfast – but with less Lyrca! My full Cornish was wonderfully well judged with the star being a nugget of Hog’s Pudding that left you in no doubt that the pig had enjoyed a good life.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We took the cycling a bit easier on the second day with a 40 mile loop – and instead took in the delights of the Logan’s Rock Inn which is famous for its crab sandwiches and also marveled at the waves crashing against Cape Cornwall. If the sun had been out we’d have visited the Menack Theatre, Porthcorno and Senna Cove – but unfortunately we were battling against near gale force winds. Even in these conditions the cycle was spectacular.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We retuned to The Old Coastguard for Cornish scones and lashings of tea as we slumbered on the world’s most comfortable sofa. Eventually it was time to go and we reluctantly bade farewell and paid our very modest bill. They’d looked after us superbly and I can’t recommend The Old Coastguard highly enough. My only suggestion for improvement would be to have a cycle rack. In fact, it could easily become a base for people cycling around Cornwall. All they’d need to do would be to provide some waterproof maps, some suggested routes (with stop offs at the Gurnard’s Head) and maybe team up with a local bike mechanic to offer some basic tools and services. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We meandered back to Penzance to board our sleeper with some provisions from Co-op – to help make the first part of the journey pass by quicker. After a ½ bottle of train wine we were feeling suitably snoozy to sleep through anything that the train tracks could throw at us. We turned into our bunks and awoke in Paddington station at 6.15am with a bacon sandwich and a cup of tea and were allowed to doze on the train until 7am. Given that the train arrived at 5am there’s something quite surreal about being asleep on a stationary train in a major station.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It is without question my favourite weekend break that we’ve been on. The fact that you get three nights away and two full days in Cornwall makes it fell like a holiday rather than just a weekend. And the experience of the sleeper service is so civilised you’ll feel like you were in a Bond film. Add the relaxed and civilised delights of The Old Coastguard into the mix and some epic weather and it gets even better. We’re now sleeper train nerds and are looking forward to an adventure to the Lakes or maybe even all the way up to the nether regions of Scotland. <o:p></o:p></div>
Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-757134563859597172013-06-17T19:31:00.001+01:002013-06-17T19:31:06.386+01:00Truffled tuscan sausages with polenta, braised fennel and gremolata<div class="MsoNormal">
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Walking into the Italian deli near my office in King’s Cross
is to be transported to the scene in Goodfellas where they are cooking in
prison. The store is run by an Italian version of the most charming version of
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open_All_Hours" target="_blank">Arkwright from Open All Hours</a>, who has never failed to be a gracious an
inspiring host. He will make you enormous sandwiches cut from whole loaves of
ciabatta laced with freshly sliced cured meats and cheeses, moistened with a
healthy slick of olive oil; or more conventionally he’ll send you packing with
genuinely Italian ingredients and delicacies that will stink your office out
for the afternoon, before transporting your family to an Italian holiday when
you get home from work. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Inspired by a colleague who had come back with a truffled
pecorino, I popped in for some <a href="http://www.qype.co.uk/place/463733-Kings-Cross-Continental-Stores-London" target="_blank">KC Continental</a> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">magia</i>. My head was almost blown off by the smell of truffle as I
walked in. But alas the cheese had sold out. But true to form Arkwrightioni
sent me packing with some amazing truffled sausages from Tuscany. These puppies
positively wreaked of truffle and almost had all the dogs in our office howling
like deranged wolves. There’s something deeply primeval about truffles and I
couldn’t wait to cook them.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I thought about making an Italian version of toad in the
hole with loads of rosemary and a healthy dose of mushrooms, but decided that
would be more suitable in autumn. I also dismissed a truffle sausage and bean
stew for similar reasons. And sausage and lentil casserole suffered a similar
fate. Instead, I opted to combine my amazing truffled sausages with a slick of
polenta, a smear of gremolata and some braised fennel.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Ingredients<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
6 truffled Tuscan sausages from KC Continental Stores<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
3 bulbs of fennel<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 large onions<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
300g of frozen peas<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
2 glasses of white wine<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
400ml of chicken stock<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
200g polenta<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
50g grated parmesan<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
3 garlic cloves<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
100g butter<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
1 pack of parsley<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
4 sprig of thyme<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Method<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Make the gremolata by very finely chopping the parsley. Then
douse in olive oil and squeeze in a lemon’s juice and add some of it’s finely grated
zest. Season aggressively. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Brown the sausages in a casserole dish and set aside.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then brown the onions and fennel until golden. Then add the
garlic. Then add the wine and let the alcohol bubble off.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Then add the sausages and 100ml of chicken stock. Add the
thyme. Allow to simmer until the sausages are cooked through. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Meanwhile make the polenta according the packet instrucions.
I used chicken stock rather than water which worked well. And then beat in lots
of parmesan and butter.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Add the peas to the casserole. Let them cook through. Season
everything.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/8871716035/" title="Truffle Tuscan Sausages 2 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Truffle Tuscan Sausages 2" height="266" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2867/8871716035_737e526f70.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Then serve with a good dollop of mushroom. And a glass of
very cold white wine. We probably should have had a Tuscan white… but instead
we had a dry German Riesling which worked very well indeed.<o:p></o:p></div>
Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-4455515638992539292013-02-24T19:56:00.000+00:002013-02-24T19:57:23.318+00:00Venison Rydberg<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:DocumentProperties> <o:Revision>0</o:Revision> <o:TotalTime>0</o:TotalTime> <o:Pages>1</o:Pages> <o:Words>675</o:Words> <o:Characters>3853</o:Characters> <o:Company>Crispin Porter + Bogusky Europe</o:Company> <o:Lines>32</o:Lines> <o:Paragraphs>9</o:Paragraphs> <o:CharactersWithSpaces>4519</o:CharactersWithSpaces> <o:Version>14.0</o:Version> </o:DocumentProperties> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--> <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:TrackMoves/> <w:TrackFormatting/> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:DoNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>JA</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:SplitPgBreakAndParaMark/> <w:EnableOpenTypeKerning/> <w:DontFlipMirrorIndents/> <w:OverrideTableStyleHps/> <w:UseFELayout/> </w:Compatibility> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" DefUnhideWhenUsed="true"
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/8355688064/" title="Venison Ryberg-6 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Venison Ryberg-6" height="266" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8328/8355688064_37ec27afb6.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Biff Rydberg caught my attention as I was thumbing my way through a Swedish butchery book. Even though there was no photo and all the text was in Swedish there was something interesting about it. From my basic grasp of Swedish I understood it to be a more grown up version of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyttipanna" target="_blank">Pytt i Panna</a> – which is minced beef mixed with cubes of sautéed potatoes that is to Sweden what chilli con carne is to Texans.</div>
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Intrigued, I dipped into Marcus Samuelson’s Aquavit book and discovered that Biff Rydberg is indeed a Swedish classic. Apparently it was invented in a hotel in Stockholm – much like the Wallenberger. It’s a very simple dish of flash fried cubes of beef fillet accompanied by squares of fried potatoes, onions and an egg yolk. Super straightforward. High quality food, simply cooked. It could barely be more Scandinavian. Check out <a href="http://www.nordicnibbler.com/2011/03/beef-rydberg-recipe.html" target="_blank">Nordic Nibbler's stunning blog post </a>about this wonderful Scandi dish.<o:p></o:p></div>
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My first attempt at Biff Rydberg actually featured elk, rather than beef, supplied by a fabulous Swedish intern whose brother was a keen huntsman. I cubed the lean elk and served it with diced sautéed potatoes and an egg yolk. It was a big success but I forgot to photograph it and felt as though the meal had slipped away. At the time I remember thinking that it would have been even better with some more interesting root vegetables and some tarragon to make the egg yolk form a sort of bernaisey sauce as it mixes with the warm meat and hot potatoes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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When I moved back to London I planted a few Jerusalem artichokes in the spring along with some golden and pink stripy beetroot. All summer I wished them along and marveled as the artichokes grew up into the stratosphere. And cursed as the beetroot seemed to laugh at me as they tip-toed their way towards adulthood. They were destined for my alternative take on Biff Rydberg – along with some wild mushrooms, the tops from my beetroot and crucially, some venison.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The venison was wild and I didn’t know what cut it came from. So rather than flash frying it – it seemed more sensible to sear it and then let it braise gently with some rehydrated wild mushrooms, juniper and red wine.<o:p></o:p></div>
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And rather than using boring old potatoes, I gave the starches an upgrade with c combination of cubed celeriac, beetroot and artichokes which balanced the metallic savouriness of the game with some earthy sweetness.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It’s a lot of effort. But as the egg yolk mingles with the gamey meat and sweet, earthy vegetables you’ll hopefully agree it’s worth it. It was so satisfying to put my artichokes and beetroot to good use.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Ingredients</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>For the braised venison<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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500g of cubed wild venison<o:p></o:p></div>
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300ml of red wine<o:p></o:p></div>
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Handful of juniper berries<o:p></o:p></div>
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Handful of dried mushrooms – rehydrated in 500ml of hot water<o:p></o:p></div>
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3 sliced onions<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 minced clove of garlic<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dried tarragon<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dusting of plain flour<o:p></o:p></div>
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Salt and pepper<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Vegetables</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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4 beetroot<o:p></o:p></div>
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½ celeriac<o:p></o:p></div>
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4 Jerusalem artichokes<o:p></o:p></div>
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Beetroot tops<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Dressing</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Fresh tarragon<o:p></o:p></div>
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2 egg yolks<o:p></o:p></div>
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1 lemon<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Method</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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This isn’t a hard dish to cook. The only thing that is tricky is juggling lots of different aspects so that they are all ready at the same time. You need to do the 3 different tasks at the same time.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dust the venison in flour and season with salt and pepper. Brown the meat in a pan. Remove from the pan. Then sauté the onions. Then deglaze the pan with red win and add the venison and juniper berries having given then a gentle bruising first. Chuck in some dried tarragon and the rehydrated wild mushrooms along with enough liquor to cover the meat. Cook in a low oven until the venison is soft. Set aside and get cracking with the other parts.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/8355672364/" title="Venison Ryberg-1 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Venison Ryberg-1" height="266" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8090/8355672364_6657647440.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/8355679506/" title="Venison Ryberg-3 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Venison Ryberg-3" height="266" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8218/8355679506_1547869949.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/8354620183/" title="Venison Ryberg-4 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Venison Ryberg-4" height="266" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8493/8354620183_335fa41665.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Bake the beetroot whole. When they are cooked peel off the skin and then slice into cubes and keep warm. Mine were so small there was no need to cut them.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Cut the celeriac into 2 cm and the Jerusalem arichokes into 4 cm chunks and then parboil in salted water until they are almost tender. Then drain, dry, season and roast in a hot oven for 20 minutes or so until golden.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Steam the beetroot tops (or spinach if using) just before serving.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Separate the venison, mushrooms and onions from the liquor and reduce this to a sticky, syrupy sauce.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Arrange the venison in the centre of the plate with an egg yolk nestling inside its shell. Then add the cubed root vegetables so that they fan out across the plate. And fit the beetroot tops in where you find space. Adorn then meat with the mushroomy mixture and the now reduced sauce. Then scatter the fresh tarragon over the whole plate along with as much seasoning as you think is required. And finish with a little spritz of lemon juice to help the egg yolk and tarragon to meld.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/8354627159/" title="Venison Ryberg-7 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Venison Ryberg-7" height="266" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8219/8354627159_0b43bc2828.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br /></div>
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Enjoy with a nice glass of red wine.<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-62357806891761588212013-01-26T14:52:00.000+00:002013-01-26T14:55:54.698+00:00Kaiserschmarrn<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCa8ndh3wGbSna8JrWapNyvBWncRnrvMg7Gf8tKgIHngPRr-hiFeVZ5SNxxkbbEa537VhyphenhyphenF9ZOlcKzGuLZBI30Pr3zA3TPoRwrJ5TZFRGkuA5z8C0EhUlrT08D5Y4IAlKZsia2XEzXBJZM/s1600/IMG_0868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCa8ndh3wGbSna8JrWapNyvBWncRnrvMg7Gf8tKgIHngPRr-hiFeVZ5SNxxkbbEa537VhyphenhyphenF9ZOlcKzGuLZBI30Pr3zA3TPoRwrJ5TZFRGkuA5z8C0EhUlrT08D5Y4IAlKZsia2XEzXBJZM/s320/IMG_0868.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
I waited until the final day of our Austrian skiing holiday last February to ask Cowie’s dad if he had any objections to me marrying his younger daughter! It was minus twenty three degrees centigrade and we were sharing a rickety old chair lift somewhere about St. Anton. As the lift reached the top of the mountain I plucked up courage and fortunately David said yes – followed by a comment that will stay with me forever: “As Prince Philip once said – you’ve been practicing long enough”.<br />
<br />
Having agreed to keep it a secret until I asked Sarah the following week – we shot off down the mountain in search of our final lunch of the holiday. Feeling giddy and a bit extravagant we finished our meal of spaetzles and schnitzels with an enormous serving of Kaiserschmarrn. It’s a classic Austrian pudding made of fluffy chopped pancakes studded with raisins that is often served with a plum compote. Apparently it was invented for Emperor Franz Joseph and his very hard to please wife who wanted a nice light dessert. It translates as Emperor’s Nonsense which all seems quite appropriate.<br />
<br />
With Pancake Day almost upon us and almost a year gone by from when I proposed to Sarah, I thought sharing this Kaiserschmarrn recipe would be rather appropriate. If you felt like taking the nonsense to a new level you could use blackberry or quince jam instead and maybe even add some different nuts.
<br />
<br />
Adapted from a <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/kaiserschmarrn_with_86930" target="_blank">BBC recipe</a><br />
<br />
<b>Ingredients</b><br />
<br />
50g butter, softened to butter the pans<br />
175g caster sugar, plus 40g for dusting the pans<br />
4 free-range egg yolks<br />
300g crème fraîche<br />
75ml dark rum<br />
75g plain flour<br />
60g raisins, soaked in rum<br />
8 free-range eggs, whites only<br />
½ tsp cream of tartar<br />
60g icing sugar, for dusting<br />
<br />
<b>Method</b><br />
<br />
Butter two ovenproof dishes and then dust with sugar.
Cream the egg yolks and 25g sugar with a whisk until smooth.
Then beat in the crème fraîche and rum, followed by the flour. Add the rum soaked raisins.<br />
<br />
Whisk the egg whites along with the cream of tartare and remaining sugar until you’ve got stiff peaks.
<br />
<br />
Then fold the egg whites into the batter and pour into the two pans.
Bake for 20 minutes – or until lightly browned and set.
Remove from the oven and chop.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6927931093/" title="Kaiserschmarrn by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Kaiserschmarrn" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7047/6927931093_4617e12553.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Then dust with icing sugar and serve with plum compote and whipped cream.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6927937187/" title="Kaiserschmarrn by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Kaiserschmarrn" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7206/6927937187_c8d7e6bf2a.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6927939141/" title="Kaiserschmarrn by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Kaiserschmarrn" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7038/6927939141_978a1d7d02.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
If you've got any suggestions for recipes for pancake day please let me know. We're more determined than ever to win our annual competition this time round.Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-2962032937035648612012-11-24T09:54:00.001+00:002012-11-24T09:55:36.595+00:00Flaming Wild Mushroom Crepes<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/7248956606/" title="Wild Mushroom Pancakes-1 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Wild Mushroom Pancakes-1" height="266" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/7248956606_b8e679db2c.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
My Godfather gave us an unbelievably exciting collection of dried wild mushrooms as a very generous engagement present. The sight of jumbo Morels, dried Chanterelles, Porcini and Trompettes de la Mort were too much to cope with, so I decided to give our Flaming Wild Mushroom Pancake recipe another outing, but with turbo charged fungus.<br />
<br />
We first created it for our entry into this year’s Pancake Day competition. It came about when we wondered how we could capture the excitement of a flaming Crepe Suzette with my obsession with mushrooms. Initial plans involved truffles and fine cognac, but it got scaled down to a more sensible wild mushroom ragout spooned inside a pancake and then doused in flaming brandy.<br />
<br />
Full of confidence and low on voting smarts we came second in February to a Chile Con Carne Crepe, which, it pains me to say it, was a deserving winner. Stung by defeat, we went back to the chopping board and tweaked our recipe to dial up the shroom factor and weave in some complementary flavours into the batter and mushroom ragout.<br />
<br />
We decided to add some porcini powder and chives to the batter to make it more savory. And also threw in extra tarragon, thyme and parsley into the ragout to make it more complex. We also decided to use Taleggio rather than Parmesan because it melts better and has a tang that makes the mushrooms stand out more.<br />
<br />
Ingredients:<br />
<br />
Pancake batter:<br />
Porcini powder (or throw dried mushrooms into the batter and then remove them after you’ve let the batter prove)<br />
Flour<br />
Eggs<br />
Water<br />
Salt<br />
Chopped chives<br />
<br />
Mushroom Ragout:<br />
<br />
1 onion<br />
3 cloves of finely chopped garlic<br />
600g button mushrooms<br />
3 handfuls of dried wild mushrooms<br />
600ml hot water<br />
Rocket<br />
100ml double cream<br />
Tarragon<br />
Parsley<br />
Taleggio<br />
Salt<br />
Pepper<br />
<br />
Method<br />
<br />
Start by making the batter. Whisk together the flour, eggs, water and add in the porcini powder or dried mushrooms.<br />
<br />
Then chop the chives very finely and add them too. Let the batter prove overnight.<br />
<br />
Rehydrate the dried wild mushrooms in boiling water and leave to steep for 30 minutes, or as long as the packet says.<br />
<br />
In the meantime, fry an onion in olive oil and butter over a low heat and once softened add in the chopped garlic. Don’t let it brown. Then add the chopped fresh mushrooms and cook until soft and coloured. Add some salt and sauté until the liquid that the mushrooms leach has bubbled away.<br />
<br />
Then squeeze the now hydrated, formerly dried, mushrooms into their bowl and add to the pan. Give this some heat to drive off the excess liquid and then, perversely, add in the mushroom stock 200ml at a time. Reduce this down until there it is a bit saucy.<br />
<br />
Then add in lots of chopped tarragon, thyme and parsley. Season and then add in 100ml of double cream and continue to reduce until you have a rich mushroomy sludge.
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/7248886986/" title="Pancakes 2012 Final-2 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Pancakes 2012 Final-2" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7074/7248886986_1c77d80420.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
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Keep this warm and fry some pancakes using the now proved
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the mushroom ragout onto half of the pancake.</div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/7249088542/" title="Wild Mushroom Pancakes-5 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Wild Mushroom Pancakes-5" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7102/7249088542_051908737f.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Serve with a peppery side salad.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-60806503826171181402012-10-27T18:32:00.001+01:002012-10-27T18:32:58.632+01:00Roast Gurnard with sage and squash<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/7932985286/" title="Gurnard and Pumpkin by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Gurnard and Pumpkin" height="266" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8453/7932985286_b031ccdea5.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
When we were in Salcombe a few years ago we went on a memorable fishing trip where I managed to catch nothing but sand eels whilst the rest of the gang reeled in a whole school of mackerel. A friend called Nick, who could catch a sea bass in a 2 inch puddle, even managed to snare a gurnard much to my shame. But then again he is a fish magnet.<br />
<br />
In contrast to my sand eels, and the mercury coloured mackerel bullets, the gurnard seemed exotic and of another world. With big eyes and a red mohican it looked worryingly like the three eyed fish that is found in the river near the nuclear power plant in the Simpsons. Ever since this encounter I’ve been keen to cook one.<br />
<br />
My chance belated came the other day. I popped into Moxons on my way home, in search of a modest piece of fish. I was thinking of lemon sole, Arctic char or mackerel, but was seduced by the idea of a large gurnard.<br />
<br />
When I inquired how to cook it the fishmonger instantly dictated that I roast it with sage and pumpkin. I could have spent ages thinking about what would have worked well. But sometimes a bit of firm direction works wonders. On a hot summer night you’d probably be better with something more lemony and acidic, but if it’s a bit cooler this is a great way to enhance the earthy and mellow nature of gurnard.<br />
<br />
Ingredients<br />
<br />
1 large gurnard<br />
½ butternut squash<br />
Handful of sage<br />
Spinach leaves<br />
Salt<br />
Pepper<br />
1 lemon<br />
Olive oil<br />
3 cloves of garlic<br />
Butter<br />
<br />
Method<br />
<br />
Cut the squash into bit sized chunks. Season with salt and pepper and roast in a medium oven along with the garlic cloves and sage leaves.<br />
<br />
Make a garlic and sage butter by adding minced garlic with finely chopped sage leaves.<br />
<br />
Prepare the gurnard by slashing the skin, seasoning and studding with sage butter.<br />
<br />
After 30 minutes when the squash is getting soft, place your gurnard on top of the squash.<br />
<br />
Cook for 10 minutes until the fish is just cooked.
Remove from the oven and wilt some spinach in a pan.<br />
<br />
Serve the gurnard whole, with the squash and spinach on the side. Squeeze some lemon over the fish and spoon whatever juices are left in the pan over the fish.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/7932986970/" title="Gurnard and Pumpkin by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Gurnard and Pumpkin" height="266" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8039/7932986970_67b4779c03.jpg" width="400" /></a>
Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-66540543455771619902012-09-05T19:38:00.000+01:002012-09-05T19:38:46.242+01:00Mackerel, Beetroot, Lentil and Egg Salad <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/7248814522/" title="Lentil and Mackerel Salad-5 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Lentil and Mackerel Salad-5" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7091/7248814522_e24ec4b5c2.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
A few months ago I found myself arriving at a bizarre Parisian hotel in the middle of what seemed like nowhere for a meeting about biscuits. It was midnight. I was shattered. And the <a href="http://www.mamashelter.com/en/" target="_blank">Hotel Mama Shelter </a>flummoxed me so much that I landed up going to the loo in the ladies toilets – only to be ticked off by a couple of outraged lesbians.<br />
<br />
After failing to find refuge in my concrete bedroom, lit only by and Obelix and evil Elvis masks, I decided to make a late trip to the bar to regain my sanity.
<br />
<br />
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I whiled away an hour watching the “Medi-arty” hop from table to table, sipping, slurping and flirting in equal measure. The highlight was watching, a bombastically trendy Swedish teenager managed to chat up and bed a fawning American model all in the space of 45 minutes.<br />
<br />
During lunch the next day we were served one of the best things I’ve eaten this year. It couldn’t have been a lot more simple. It was just a mound of perfectly cooked and seasoned green lentils, dressed with mustard and crème fraiche and topped with a soft boiled egg and a scattering of tarragon. Its simplicity belied its flavour and moreishness.<br />
<br />
I’ve since taken this straightforward approach to lentils and cook this dish whenever we need to conjour a quick supper out of thin air. Add some smoked mackerel and beetroot and you’ve got one of the healthiest, easiest and most delicious suppers imaginable. I suspect it would be even better with some horseradish.<br />
<br />
Ingredients for two people:<br />
<br />
300g green lentils<br />
2 eggs<br />
Handful of chopped tarragon<br />
3 smoked mackerel fillets<br />
2 sliced beetroots<br />
2 spoons of Dijon mustard<br />
2 spoons of crème fraiche<br />
Salt and pepper<br />
Lemon<br />
<br />
Method:<br />
<br />
Boil the lentils until tender. Drain. And allow to cool slightly. Mix through the mustard, crème fraiche and most of the chopped tarragon. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
<br />
<br />
Soft boil or poach your eggs.<br />
<br />
Throw on some broken up pieces of smoked mackerel and some slices of beetroot and place the soft cooked egg on top. Sprinkle the remaining tarragon on top.
Season the egg, squeeze some lemon over the top and serve immediately. Pierce the egg to release the runny yolk and tuck in.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/7248781260/" title="Lentil and Mackerel Salad-1 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Lentil and Mackerel Salad-1" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7090/7248781260_dbfee7963a.jpg" width="400" /></a>Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-9586635772947622722012-06-18T09:14:00.001+01:002012-06-19T11:00:28.034+01:00Brunost and Juniper Venison Shank with Spelt<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6929816645/" title="Venison shank-3 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Venison shank-3" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/6929816645_ae8bcf2d47.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<br />
<br />
One of the classic ways of cooking with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brunost" target="_blank">brunost</a> in Scandinavia is to use it to enrich slow cooked game dishes that have been laced with juniper. I first discovered it in <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kitchen-Light-Andreas-Viestad/dp/1579653405/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1340099710&sr=8-1" target="_blank">Andreas Viestad’s Scandinavian cookbook, Kitchen of Light</a>. The sweetness and unexpected tang help to lift the sauce away from fuggy earthiness and gives the sometimes thin liquor a glossy glow. It’s the Norwegian equivalent of adding some dark chocolate to a Mexican mole.<br />
<br />
I picked up a handsome venison shank from <a href="http://www.lfm.org.uk/markets/balham/" target="_blank">Balham Farmers’ Market</a> that would have been just as happy (and a lot more expensive) had I encountered it in Gothenburg. The meat was as dense as lead and spoke of a life of permanent effort and back-breakingly hard work.<br />
<br />
It needed to be cooked as slowly as possible – in a way that could cope with the rich flavour of the meat and the tense meat. So I decided to throw mushrooms, red wine, spelt, juniper and onions at the casserole dish and abandoned it for the afternoon whilst it burbled away in the oven. Whilst June isn’t the normal time of year to be writing about venison shank stews – the weather right now is making me feel a bit like hibernating with a lump of brunost.<br />
<br />
<b>Ingredients to serve 2</b><br />
<br />
1 large venison shank or 2 small shanks<br />
100g of pearled spelt<br />
100g of dried mushrooms (preferably porcini or morels)<br />
100g of sliced button mushrooms<br />
30g of brunost<br />
A good handful of juniper berries<br />
2 bay leaves<br />
2 onions<br />
2 cloves of garlic<br />
400ml of stock to cover (but top up with water as required)<br />
2 glasses of red wine<br />
Salt and pepper<br />
<br />
Rehydrate the dried mushrooms and make sure you keep the liquor.<br />
<br />
<b>Method:</b><br />
<br />
Roll the venison shank in seasoned flour and then brown in a hot cast iron casserole dish. Remove and then sweat the onion, button mushrooms and garlic until they have taken on some colour and the mushrooms have shed some of their juice. Then add the spelt, rehydrated mushrooms (and their liquor), the juniper berries, bay leaf and venison shank. Cover with red wine and stock until well covered. Then bring to a simmer.<br />
<br />
Once it is bubbling away, pop on the lid and place in the oven to cook for another 2 hours or so at a low heat. You must check on its progress to make sure it doesn’t dry out as the spelt with absorb a surprising amount of liquid. Top up with stock, red wine or water as you wish.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6929814831/" title="Venison shank-1 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Venison shank-1" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7196/6929814831_37da589fae.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Once the meat is lethargically giving up its grip on the tendons and bones remove from the oven and drain off the liquid. Strain these luscious juices into a pan and reduce to a condensed slick of brown heaven. Check for seasoning and add more juniper berries. Then when it is getting a bit thicker, add the brunost and whisk like a madman. The sauce should thicken and become a bit fudgy. Taste it as you go and don’t over reduce because the sugars may catch. Keep this warm whilst you attend to your cauliflower cheese.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6783700364/" title="Venison shank-5 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Venison shank-5" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7209/6783700364_98ba42985f.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Strip the tender venison meat from the bone and assemble with the spelt and mushroom stew, topped with the glossy brunost and juniper sauce, alongside the <a href="http://aroundbritainwithapaunch.blogspot.fr/2012/04/liver-with-brunost-cauliflower-cheese.html" target="_blank">brunost cauliflower cheese</a> and some wilted spinach.<br />
<br />
Like still waters, this dish runs deep. The combination of sweet and sour brunost with bitter juniper mixed with the feral depth of the mushrooms and venison make this a dish that a Viking, returning from a day of pillaging, would be very happy to come home to.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6783701200/" title="Venison shank-6 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Venison shank-6" height="266" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6783701200_759e4ca8e0.jpg" width="400" /></a>Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-75429046818318672472012-06-05T11:59:00.000+01:002012-06-07T12:13:48.499+01:00Mark Hix’s Vivid SoupsWith my mind wondering down a Swedish memory lane, I remembered a couple of vivid soups I made from <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hix-Oyster-Chop-House-Mark/dp/1844003922/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1338893849&sr=8-3" target="_blank">Mark Hix’s Oyster and Chop House cookbook</a> during the fleeting but magical Gothenburg summer.<br />
<br />
The book itself is a beauty to look, charming to fondle, fun to read but frustratingly dilute when it came to the subject of the Chop House part of the idea. Sure, the meat was beautifully photographed and well annotated with interesting commentary and the odd recipe, but where it could have been a seminal T-Bone, it seemed bashed out like a minute steak. If you want a masterclass in meat and generally chop-housery, opt instead for HFW’s The River Cottage Meat Book, <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hawksmoor-Home-Breakfasts-Puddings-Cocktails/dp/1848093357/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1338893882&sr=1-1" target="_blank">Hawksmoor At Home</a> or the <a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ginger-Pig-Meat-Book-Wilson/dp/1845335589/ref=pd_sim_b_1" target="_blank">Ginger Pig Meatboo</a>k. But then again, maybe Hix thought it had been done already.<br />
<br />
Rather perversely, Mark Hix’s book comes into its own in the less meaty sections. His <a href="http://aroundbritainwithapaunch.blogspot.co.uk/2011/03/chicken-livers-on-toast-with.html" target="_blank">chicken livers on toast recipe</a> is a beauty and his fennel salad dressed with orange juice and vinegar is very good too if you ease off on the rape seed oil. And his <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5336343881/in/set-72157625652372895/" target="_blank">fish with peas and leaks</a> is delicious.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5336343881/" title="Pollock a la Hix-2 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Pollock a la Hix-2" height="266" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5166/5336343881_0b158bab04.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4841446353/" title="Fish cakes by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Fish cakes" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4086/4841446353_fd2f25787c.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4885495825/" title="Liver on toast aerial by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Liver on toast aerial" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4140/4885495825_40070ac87c.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
But, the best two things I’ve cooked from his book are a couple of punchy soups which seem to capture his bold, mischievous and blokey personality to a soupy T.<br />
<br />
The first was golden beetroot soup, which captured my attention as it was supposed to, because the golden coloured beetroot was intended to trick your dinner guests. This bright yellow soup looked like butternut squash, or possibly a saffron spiked courgette soup, but tasted earthily of the very essence of beetroot. Arguably even more so than if it was red. I've since sown some golden beetroot seeds and hope to recreate this soup back in London with my own vegetables.<br />
<br />
The second was for a horseradish soup which almost blew my head off as I grated the fresh root in my Magimix. Even with a topping of walnut floaters and a dab of goats’ cheese it was explosive.<br />
<br />
If you like your soup to be vibrant, exciting and a conversational hand grenade, this one is for you. But if you like your potage to be further towards the potato or broccoli end of the spectrum you may want to give this one a wide birth and go for the golden beetroot version. Soupifying the horseradish only seems to make it even more psychopathically strong – and using golden beets seems to make them even more beetrooty.<br />
<br />
Chilled Golden Beetroot Soup:<br />
<br />
Ingredients:<br />
<br />
400g golden beetroot<br />
Salt and pepper<br />
Olive oil<br />
1 chopped onion<br />
1 litre of vegetable stock<br />
<br />
Method:<br />
<br />
Mark Hix suggests boiling the beetroot. But I much prefer to bake them in salt as they seem to emerge sweeter. Allow to cool and then peel and chop them into chunks.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4873396502/" title="Golden beets by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Golden beets" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4076/4873396502_761727d15a.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Sweat the onion in the hot oil in a large saucepan. Once softened, add the stock. Bring to the boil and simmer for an hour. Then add the chopped beetroot and remove from the heat.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4873400744/" title="Golden beet x section by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Golden beet x section" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4102/4873400744_7a3a3ab833.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
Blend it until smooth. Pass it through a sieve to make it super silky.<br />
<br />
Chill.<br />
<br />
Either serve on its own. Or with some goats' cheese or curd floating on top. Or a swirl of cream. Or if you are feeling a bit Swedish, with some grated horseradish on top.<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4873357008/" title="Yellow beet soup by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Yellow beet soup" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4093/4873357008_86d7065267.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4872783393/" title="Yellow beet soup low down by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Yellow beet soup low down" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4078/4872783393_72363aa1ea.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Horseradish Soup:<br />
<br />
Ingredients:<br />
<br />
50g butter<br />
1 chopped onion<br />
1 chopped leek<br />
1 tablespoon of flour<br />
1.5 litres of vegetable stock<br />
Salt and pepper<br />
100g grated horseradish<br />
1-2 tablespoons of double cream<br />
<br />
Method:
<br />
<br />
Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Sweat the onion and lieek and cook without colouring for a few minutes. Stir in the flour to make a roux and add the stock gradually. Season and simmer for 30 minutes.<br />
<br />
Next do the fun part. Grate your horseradish using the grater attachment on your Magimix. Or just do it by hand. The hit of horseradish is one of the most intense experiences I've ever had whilst cooking. So watch out!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4872795959/" title="Grated horseradish by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Grated horseradish" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4098/4872795959_da5b0ba72e.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<br />
Add the grated horseradish to the soup and simmer for 5 or 10 minutes. Take off the heat and then blend until smooth. Pass it through a sieve for extra smoothness.<br />
<br />
Check for seasoning add the cream, heat up and serve.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4872764465/" title="Horseradish soup by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Horseradish soup" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4101/4872764465_863bf4f911.jpg" width="400" /></a>Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-86038348450808533612012-05-24T18:12:00.000+01:002012-05-25T10:26:37.324+01:00Happy Memories from GothenburgI’ve just spent a few hours rather tediously filling out forms associated with moving back from Sweden to the UK. Amazingly it is now nine months since I returned and whilst I am loving being back in London, I do get the odd yearning for the best bits of Sweden: such as rye bread; sizzlingly clear air; the rugged coastline; 5 minute walks to work; boatloads of fish; and a life less hectic.<br />
<br />
I found myself looking back through my old <a href="http://gothenburg365.wordpress.com/">Gothenburg 365 blog</a> and thought I’d share some of my favourite pictures from it with you. Forgive my indulgence.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5368462620/" title="Gothenburg 365 Jan Mid-13 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Gothenburg 365 Jan Mid-13" height="266" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5168/5368462620_97cf5bf621.jpg" width="400" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4446812811/" title="Fart hinder by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Fart hinder" height="266" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2680/4446812811_54dcc6472a.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4438985662/" title="1. Washing machine rota by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="1. Washing machine rota" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4055/4438985662_d8fc0c7101.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4450549330/" title="Trolley on ice with tram by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Trolley on ice with tram" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4045/4450549330_f3d66376c0.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5428986945/" title="Life Ring by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Life Ring" height="266" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5100/5428986945_a6e0c7e6a9.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5367848601/" title="Gothenburg 365 Jan Mid-12 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Gothenburg 365 Jan Mid-12" height="266" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5002/5367848601_1e342f3844.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5429588850/" title="Ice Cracks by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Ice Cracks" height="266" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5140/5429588850_c18401427f.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4604693239/" title="Girl with balloons by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Girl with balloons" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4018/4604693239_b07748c56b.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5052070177/" title="Beetroot Gnocchi1 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4106/5052070177_bd7c8101fd.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Beetroot Gnocchi1"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4475967018/" title="Scrabble by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Scrabble" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4027/4475967018_74afcc1dd8.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4720526952/" title="Red stone graffiti by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Red stone graffiti" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4030/4720526952_d4b004abd2.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4678130330/" title="Water fight by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Water fight" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4034/4678130330_fe22069114.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4767550024/" title="Boating by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Boating" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4098/4767550024_c71c4bd384.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5608048554/" title="Lobster Safari-32 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5066/5608048554_50ab8b582d.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Lobster Safari-32"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4766926285/" title="Thin yellow and blue flag by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Thin yellow and blue flag" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4122/4766926285_1e67f3edbd.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4767561120/" title="Buzz the boat by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Buzz the boat" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4117/4767561120_379453abb5.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4767559180/" title="Foxgloves by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Foxgloves" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4141/4767559180_d990806749.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5159424742/" title="November Gothenburg-8 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="November Gothenburg-8" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4027/5159424742_83a28b6db8.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5015795978/" title="Jesper 2 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Jesper 2" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4153/5015795978_496c4ac16d.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5129002551/" title="Mussel Safari41 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Mussel Safari41" height="266" src="http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1096/5129002551_1ff4f9b54d.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5158619669/" title="Salt & Sill-4 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Salt & Sill-4" height="266" src="http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1232/5158619669_05850db4b6.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5159248216/" title="Salt & Sill-12 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Salt & Sill-12" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4055/5159248216_7b37a9afb3.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5537689243/" title="Venison tartar on rye by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5058/5537689243_44a4d0d3f8.jpg" width="400" height="300" alt="Venison tartar on rye"></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4848872185/" title="Redcurrants close by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Redcurrants close" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4116/4848872185_0c33769995.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4984053628/" title="Kantareller market by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Kantareller market" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4126/4984053628_bb2ca6140a.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4984245957/" title="Chanterelles close by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Chanterelles close" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4109/4984245957_14e5c0cff9.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5048523898/" title="Cranes orange by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Cranes orange" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4084/5048523898_db8f59a08f.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4841249037/" title="Rainy clocktower by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Rainy clocktower" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4104/4841249037_387d40fba1.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4841242877/" title="Droplets by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Droplets" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4131/4841242877_ca73589c21.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5696498392/" title="Swedish Shrimp Sandwich-10 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Swedish Shrimp Sandwich-10" height="266" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3045/5696498392_8e36b2fff5.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6783812852/" title="Fjallbacka-36 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Fjallbacka-36" height="290" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7189/6783812852_340654aff7.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6783788238/" title="Fjallbacka-15 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Fjallbacka-15" height="300" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7196/6783788238_1ed8c08541.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5212383930/" title="Gothenburg 365 November-9 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Gothenburg 365 November-9" height="266" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5247/5212383930_d873da8fae.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5443489784/" title="Rally Sweden-4 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Rally Sweden-4" height="266" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5293/5443489784_908b5e7a14.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5443020245/" title="Rally Sweden-60 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Rally Sweden-60" height="266" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5218/5443020245_42b879b76e.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/4920487495/" title="Ryan Air by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Ryan Air" height="266" src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4102/4920487495_e971345994.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5472596686/" title="Gothenburg 365 Feb-2 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Gothenburg 365 Feb-2" height="266" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5013/5472596686_974b0a3b6d.jpg" width="400" /></a>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/5472003969/" title="Gothenburg 365 Feb-1 by browners82, on Flickr"><img alt="Gothenburg 365 Feb-1" height="266" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5060/5472003969_6f9a3f786f.jpg" width="400" /></a>Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-1076048770142628212012-04-03T11:32:00.003+01:002012-04-03T11:42:51.806+01:00Liver with Brunost Cauliflower Cheese<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6781781104/" title="Brunost Liver and Cauliflower by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7192/6781781104_15533f3b8c.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Brunost Liver and Cauliflower"></a><br /><br /><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brunost">Brunost (AKA Gjetost or Gudbrandsdalsost)</a> is an amazing substance. It’s a Norwegian cheese that is typically made by mixing goat’s whey with goat’s cream and reducing it down until you get a dense, fudgy, sweet and savoury caremlised cheese that’s really hard to pin down. All Norwegians have a block or tube of it in their fridge which they eat on crackers and other snacks. It was considered healthy because of the high iron content, but it has since been downgraded to a health risk because of the high fat content. <br /><br />It packs more calories than any other cheese, leaving even the mighty Parmesan in its wake. It’s like a cheesy Daim bar that has a powerful tang.<br /><br />I first encountered it in Gothenburg when the 6 foot blond Swedish girl with an Irish accent on the cheese counter in the local market gave me a nibble of it and explained that people often lob a bit into the pan juices when they cook a steak or game to make a rich gravy. I gave it a pass at the time, but half a year later had a sudden hankering to try it out.<br /><br />I asked a few Scandi friends who pointed me in the direction of a <a href="http://www.cookipedia.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Gjetost_cheese">few</a> <a href="http://scandinavianfood.about.com/u/ua/scandinavianfoodglossary/gjetostreaderresponses.htm">recipes</a> that suggest mixing a small amount with meat juices when cooking steak, elk, moose or venison. I figured that a nice piece of calf’s liver would be just as good and decided to accompany it with a rich Norwegian take on cauliflower cheese that was spiked with fudgy brunost.<br /><br />Brunost Cauliflower Cheese<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Ingredients:</span><br /><br />1 head of cauliflower<br />1 knob of butter<br />1 tablespoon of flour<br />100g of gruyere<br />30g of brunost<br />150ml of stock or white wine<br />150ml of milk<br />Salt and pepper<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Method:</span><br /><br />Basically, make cauliflower cheese as you normally would by blanching some cauliflower and then smothering in a cheesy, béchamel based sauce, topped with grated brunost. <br /><br />I like to mix the milk half and half with stock and find that gruyere is an ideal cheese. But what makes this special is the addition of brunost which gives the cauliflower cheese a sweet and sour kick that works brilliantly with the liver. <br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6927898713/" title="Brunost Liver and Cauliflower by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7047/6927898713_df1fb37db6.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Brunost Liver and Cauliflower"></a><br /><br />Simply grate the brunost over the cauliflower cheese and add a few lumps as well as you see fit. Season with salt and pepper and then throw it in the oven for 20 minutes until golden brown.<br /><br />Then season the liver with salt and pepper, dust with flour and then sear in a very hot pan for a few minutes until the outside is browned and the inside is still pink. Allow to rest somewhere warm and in the meantime deglaze the pan with a spash of red wine. Then whisk in a knob of brunost and reduce until you have a thick, fudgy gravy. Taste as you go and adjust the seasoning.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6927901555/" title="Brunost Liver and Cauliflower by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6927901555_93ef5b4563.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Brunost Liver and Cauliflower"></a><br /><br />Serve the liver adorned with brunost sauce and flanked by cauliflower cheese and spinach. For wine pairings for brunost dishes, check out <a href="http://www.snooth.com/wine-pairings/juniper-spiced-venison-with-brown-goat-cheese-sauce/">Snooth</a>, but you might be better with <a href="http://cheesemongerswife.wordpress.com/2009/04/17/gjetost-you-either-love-it-or-you-hate-it/">beer</a>.Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-34079477084808874972012-03-29T08:59:00.007+01:002012-03-29T09:55:25.565+01:00Hake a la Washing Machine<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6781761654/" title="Washing Machine Hake-10 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7050/6781761654_6dc1c2bbe2.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Washing Machine Hake-10"></a><br /><br />When our washing machine broke down, Cowie was spinning with rage, whilst I grinned to myself and said a quiet prayer to the Gods of domestic appliances, that it might be in a cookable state. I figured that if we had to buy a replacement, <a href="http://aroundbritainwithapaunch.blogspot.co.uk/2009/12/wanted-washing-machine-for-lateral.html">my lifelong ambition to cook in a washing machine would be within my grasp</a>.<br /><br />The engineer’s report indicated that the machine was in a fully functioning state, except that the drum just wouldn’t spin, so he advised us to get a replacement. I figured that this is the dream situation. I checked the internet to see if anyone had done anything like this before and discovered some Americans had, quite brilliantly, <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atRhyxNK27w">attempted to cook scrambled eggs inside whoopee cushions</a>, with highly questionable results. I’ll leave you to ponder what talcum powder-cum-rubbery scrambled eggs would taste like.<br /><br />When we’ve cooked in <a href="http://aroundbritainwithapaunch.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/lateral">lateral</a> ways in the past, we’ve found a sure-fire technique is to improvise a sous vide bag by using a <a href="http://www.baco.co.uk/products/product_18.shtml">Baco bag</a> and simply throw in a fillet of fish along with some flavours before doing up the bag with an aggressive knot. This approach was a great success when we cooked a fillet of salmon with soy, ginger, chilli and garlic in the <a href="http://aroundbritainwithapaunch.blogspot.co.uk/2009/10/fish-washer-salmon.html">dishwasher</a> and the <a href="http://londonist.com/2009/05/sous_vide_bathtub_salmon_with_jonat.php">bath</a>. <br /><br />I popped into <a href="http://www.moxonsfreshfish.com/">Moxon’s</a> on my way home and had one of the most surreal experiences I’ve had in a long time. As I was perusing the selection of fish looking for some hake, one of the fishmongers inquired what I was looking for. Rather absentmindedly, I explained that I was looking for the ideal fish to cook in the washing machine. Silence descended before the boss intervened and asked his colleague to see if they had any hake behind the counter. Luckily they did and I was sent on my way with the fishmongers wondering whether they should call the asylum.<br /><br />I figured that hake steaks would work well because the bones would support the structure and help them to cook evenly. Also, hake’s firm flesh lends itself to this long and slow cooking method. Rather than the Asian approach, used in the bath and dishwasher, I thought a combination of fennel and saffron would make for an exotic change.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6927874097/" title="Washing Machine Hake-2 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7184/6927874097_bc511034ab.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Washing Machine Hake-2"></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6781757378/" title="Washing Machine Hake-5 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7045/6781757378_158b05c06f.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Washing Machine Hake-5"></a><br /><br />When it came to the big night we popped the fish in a Baco bag along with some fennel seeds, salt, pepper, a dash of olive oil and a few strands of saffron and then set the washing machine on a 90’C cycle. <br /><br />The machine gushed with water and then started to fill up, with the little parcel gently bobbing in the hot water bath. We sat and watched as the drum thankfully refused to spin and the fish gently cooked. It's an odd sensation having your food locked away without being able to prod or check it.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6781758444/" title="Washing Machine Hake-6 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7056/6781758444_b7d28b2cd7.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Washing Machine Hake-6"></a><br /><br />An hour or so later, the door clicked and we were left with perfectly cooked fish, that delicately flaked with a pearly gloss that held together like an MI5 officer under enemy questioning. The only down side was that because I’d put two fillets in the same bag, one of the steaks had slightly distorted into a strange shape. So if you are doing this, use separate bags.<br /><br />I made a quick dressing by heating the juices that collected in the bag with a touch of cream and a squeeze of lemon and then made a salad with mint and fennel. The salad showed off the pearly white flesh and saffron hued surface whilst the fennel and mint added some crunch and freshness.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6927882413/" title="Washing Machine Hake-11 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6927882413_8dea8261b4.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Washing Machine Hake-11"></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6781763720/" title="Washing Machine Hake-13 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7062/6781763720_e352da8a3a.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Washing Machine Hake-13"></a><br /><br />I couldn’t believe how well this crazy little project turned out. I was worried that the fish would be overcooked or uncooked. I was really concerned it would just taste of washing powder. And I wasn’t sure if the drum would kick in and start spinning at random. But none of these things happened and it not only worked perfectly, but it cooked the hake better than I have ever managed using conventional methods!<br /><br />So when you hear the death rattle from your washing machine, embrace it and send it off to white goods heaven with a decent final meal.Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-63842229192587171652012-02-09T09:07:00.007+00:002012-02-10T09:28:11.110+00:00Marmalade Fetish from Blue Stockings Preserves<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/slayer23/5066187674/" title="The Colours of Autumn by slayerphoto, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4144/5066187674_b5242d71f9.jpg" width="400" height="199" alt="The Colours of Autumn"></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">Photo from<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/slayer23/5066187674/in/photostream/"> Slayer Photo via Creative Commons on Flickr</a></span><br /><br />Living abroad makes you truly appreciate what you most value about your home culture. When I was living in Sweden I missed the comfort of eating pies and slow cooked meat dishes in cosy countryside pubs. I hankered after scotch eggs with gooey middles. I craved the ritual of reading the Observer with a pot of coffee. I gasped for a proper cup of PG Tips despite the tea in Sweden being really good. I occasionally had a Baked Beans Moment and even found myself celebrating my birthday with baked beans on toast at work for breakfast. And I also missed marmalade. Big time.<br /><br />Although the word ‘marmalade’ pops up in lots of cultures, I’ve had far too many conversations with people overseas about marmalade which reveals that the stuff we know and love is dramatically different from what they think is marmalade. People seem to think it can contain any old oranges, rather than Seville. They are surprised when it has bits in it. Some even question whether non citrus fruit qualify. The truth is that what we call ‘marmalade’ in the Britain is peculiar to our culture and ‘marmalade’ in other countries has a looser frame of reference.<br /><br />I can imagine an argument between Frege and Wittgenstein about what the word ‘marmalade’ refers to and some sort of baffling conclusion about the sticky problems of philosophy being caused by the incapacity of our bitty language to cope with such simple things as what we all mean by marmalade. <br /><br />Putting this ridiculous issue to one side, Cowie and I decided to make three batches of marmalade. One classic fine marmalade. One batch with ginger and honey. And the last one with cardamom and honey, inspired by <a href="http://feedetgastro.wordpress.com/2011/01/28/seville-orange-marmalade">feedetgastro</a>.<br /><br />We used the same base <a href="http://www.waitrose.com/home/recipes.html">recipe from Waitrose Magazine</a> which called for overnight steeping, fine cut peel and a pair of Cowie’s stockings. OK. I made that last bit up.<br /><br />We giggled to ourselves as Cowie filled her stockings with orange segments and invented our own jam company called “Blue Stockings Preserves” which impishly injects a bit of sex appeal into such a WI orientated world. <br /><br />We’re planning to launch “Seedy Strawberry”, “Raunchy Raspberry”, “Burlesque Blueberry” and “Fondlesome Fig” jams as well. The lids of the jars will be covered in blue stockings and tied down with an Agent Provacateur-esque ribbon. And the labels will be illustrated with beautifully smutty imagery that would probably be banned in Sainsbury’s and loved by Rihana. Imagine Innocent’s brand world, but corrupted by Lady Gaga into making fetishistic jam. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Ingredients for 6 normal sized jars</span><br /><br />4 Seville oranges<br />2 kg of sugar<br />3 liters of water<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Method:<br /></span><br />Remove the peel from the oranges and cut the remaining fruit into segments. Cover the fruit pieces in 1.5 litres of water and leave to soak overnight.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6845503213/" title="Seville Segments by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7029/6845503213_c1e9bc8716.jpg" width="400" height="400" alt="Seville Segments"></a><br /><br />Cut away any white pith from the peel and slice the zest into fine slithers. Add the excess white to the segments and cover the shredded zest in a further 1.5 litres of water.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6845503221/" title="Marmalade Peel by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7002/6845503221_4aa6a1afa0.jpg" width="400" height="400" alt="Marmalade Peel"></a><br /> <br />The next day pour the zesty water into a large pan along with the water from the fruit segments and heat to a simmer. Feed the fruit segments into a stocking (not fishnet) and tie it at the top to stop the fruit escaping. Submerge in the pan and simmer for 2 hours.<br /><br />During this time, heat your jars and lids through in the oven to sterilise them.<br /><br />After 2 hours remove the stocking from the marmalade allow to cool. Once it is cool enough to handle squeeze out what juice you can and add it to the pan. <br /><br />Pour the sugar into the pan and heat to a rolling boil. Allow to boil for 30-40 minutes until the liquid has taken on a golden glow. At this point do the saucer in the freezer test and prepare for bottling.<br /><br />Pour the smoldering liquid into a measuring jug and decant into the super hot jars. Then leave to cool and once set seal with their lids. <br /><br />Cut up an old shirt and secure to the lid with a rubber band. Or better still some blue stockings and a makeshift garter!<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6845503217/" title="Blue Stockings Preserves Marmalade by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6845503217_34bdf7b94e.jpg" width="400" height="400" alt="Blue Stockings Preserves Marmalade"></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Ginger and Honey Marmalade:</span><br /><br />As per the above classic recipe, but exchange 200g of sugar for 200g of honey. And add a jar of preserved ginger to the pan when you add the sugar.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Cardamom and Honey Marmalade:</span><br /><br />As per the classic recipe but add a dozen crushed cardamom pods to the orange segments when they go inside the stocking. And exchange 200g of sugar for honey.<br /><br />The honey has proved to be a great success. It seems to have helped give the marmalade a really gooey set which has a comforting oozing sensation on the tongue. And of all three the ginger and honey edition seems to be going down the quickest. The fine shred is quite a different experience from course cut marmalade - with a much lighter but still intense flavour. There's a time and a place for both, but for now Blue Stockings Preserves cutting it fine.<br /><br />P.S. Sorry for the iPhone photos. Superheated syrup and nice cameras don't seem to like each other very much!Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-11032199757620560282012-01-28T10:56:00.004+00:002012-01-28T11:04:03.915+00:00Smoky Somerset Horsebit<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUyEHSfvDm0JbpVNHGZXHidZnAG5RnCh4Vz0oCFlM8ibbwU7ieZyydn84OzYW02NZJVsq7BThtK_uuz_7a_DqVdvTUFeEYQYXupRnv-VXJcXStDfuRanQbCeWyduGa3CespC9eywZo-AWE/s1600/Smokey+Somerset+Horsebit-3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 299px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUyEHSfvDm0JbpVNHGZXHidZnAG5RnCh4Vz0oCFlM8ibbwU7ieZyydn84OzYW02NZJVsq7BThtK_uuz_7a_DqVdvTUFeEYQYXupRnv-VXJcXStDfuRanQbCeWyduGa3CespC9eywZo-AWE/s400/Smokey+Somerset+Horsebit-3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5702635962242877218" /></a><br />When we woke up we could see our breath billow out of our mouths as if we’d swallowed a smoke machine. Our bedroom windows were so cold they had silvery ice on both sides. And the horses in the stables looked out past icicles. The clear sky had invited the frost to paint its early morning picture and had left the grass twinkling in the light and crackling underfoot. At times like this winter is my favourite season.<br /><br />After a bowl of raisin strewn porridge and some super-strong coffee I set off for a bike ride around the exhaustingly beautiful Somerset hills as part of my training for July’s Antwerp Half Iron Man. On days like this, cycling for a few hours in the clear English countryside air is a joy rather than a chore.<br /><br />After forty or so miles I was almost home and treated myself to a trip to <a href="http://laganfarms.com/">Lagan’s Farm Shop</a> where I picked up some vintage smoked Somerset cheddar before buying a rye sourdough loaf from the excellent <a href="http://atthechapel.co.uk/?page_id=62">bakery At the Chapel in Bruton</a>.<br /><br />On my final few miles, as my fingers started to go numb as I passed the local hunt charging around on their horses, I tossed aside the thought of a simple ploughman’s and decided instead, to give the humble Welsh Rarebit a Somerset twist. With the combination of gooey smoked cheese, morcilla, horseradish, mustard, an egg and good bread, this was so much more than just cheese on toast. This was a Smoky Somerset Horsebit.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Ingredients:</span><br /><br />2 thick slices of sourdough rye bread<br />200g of smoked cheddar<br />1 egg<br />1 dessert spoon of horseradish cream<br />1 teaspoon of strong mustard<br />Some crumbled smoked sausage (such as morcilla or chorizo)<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Method:</span><br /><br />Cut the bread thickly and toast.<br /><br />Grate the cheese and mix together with the egg. Stir the horseradish cream, mustard and crumbled sausage into the cheesy-egg mixture and slather on top of the toast. <br /><br />Grill for 5 minutes until the cheese has melted is starting to brown.<br /><br />Serve with some chutney and a cup of tea.<br /><br />The smokiness of the cheese and the horseradish elevate this from being just cheese on toast, to being something that you’d happily cycle all morning for. And the horseradish is a great way of jolting your body and mind back into life. The morcilla is optional, but it does help to make this a bit richer and more satisfying.Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4906220867589613765.post-75648019517950408222011-12-22T10:36:00.009+00:002011-12-22T11:12:20.543+00:00The Hardwick, Wales<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6553240935/" title="Brecon Beacons-28 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7143/6553240935_16f40e008a.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Brecon Beacons-28"></a><br /><br />Cowie and I always try to steal a fleeting weekend for ourselves before Christmas as a way of fluffing ourselves into the festive spirit and as something to look forward to during the manic rush of London life in December. It’s a time of false deadlines, mounting workloads and indulgent parties that cries out for a healthy dose of rural relaxation.<br /><br />This year we decided to follow up on the success of trips to <a href="http://aroundbritainwithapaunch.blogspot.com/2010/06/stunning-meal-at-y-polyn.html">Y Polyn</a> and the <a href="http://aroundbritainwithapaunch.blogspot.com/2010/08/felin-fach-griffin.html">Felin Fach Griffin</a> in Wales and this time head to <a href="http://www.thehardwick.co.uk/">The Hardwick near Abergavenny</a>. It gets a great write up in Diana Henry’s Gastropub Cookbook so we could barely resist.<br /><br />Cowie booked us into a <a href="http://www.tyrchanter.com">phenomenal BnB</a> which is on the <a href="http://www.glanuskestate.com">Glanusk Estate</a> which is one of the corners of the world that when you discover it you want to simultaneously tell everyone all about it, but also put people off visiting because you want to hoard the experience for yourself. <br /><br /><a href="http://www.tyrchanter.com">Ty’r Chanter</a> looks across at the Brecon Beacons and up at the Black Mountains, with the River Usk roaring past in the valley below so loudly that you could easily convince someone living in Reading that it was the M4. But, whilst the motorway may be spirit sapping, this is the sort of multi sensory experience that lifts the soul. The view below, of the snow capped mountains, is from our bedroom window. And if this isn’t amazing enough, we saw a kite swoop to pluck a pheasant from the field for supper. If you are planning to stay somewhere in this part of the country, you'd be mad not to stay here.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6553226201/" title="Brecon Beacons-2 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7013/6553226201_5656871473.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Brecon Beacons-2"></a><br /> <br />Inspired by the view and with a major meal ahead of us, we decided to head out for a run. There’s nothing like a thirteen mile yomp through the Black Mountains past fields full of sheep and along the river Usk’s salmon rich banks, teeming with waterfalls to build up an appetite. It’s like doing a spinning class in the Ginger Pig in order to stimulate your yearning for a juicy steak, or doing some pilates in the Fromagerie to put you in the zone for a cheeseathon. <br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6553239941/" title="Brecon Beacons-25 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7031/6553239941_e9f6efd7fc.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Brecon Beacons-25"></a><br /> <br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6553239393/" title="Brecon Beacons-24 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7022/6553239393_c8ff3e116a.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Brecon Beacons-24"></a> <br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6553233457/" title="Brecon Beacons-14 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7167/6553233457_133d1eb419.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Brecon Beacons-14"></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6553235139/" title="Brecon Beacons-16 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7175/6553235139_a6341d733e.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Brecon Beacons-16"></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/browners/6553231467/" title="Brecon Beacons-11 by browners82, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7020/6553231467_9a03787563.jpg" width="400" height="266" alt="Brecon Beacons-11"></a><br /><br />So we arrived at <a href="http://www.thehardwick.co.uk/">The Hardwick</a> with enormous appetites and even bigger expectations. And left with the former negated and the latter more than exceeded. For this is a seriously impressive restaurant.<br /><br />After spending so much time next to the Usk and having seen so many pictures in our BnB of people proudly holding enormous fish, it would have been criminal for one of us to have their locally smoked salmon and confit salmon to start. Cowie adored it. Iridescent slices of salmon were served with beetroot crisps, a mild horseradish cream and pea shoots that matched with our Gruner Veltliner/Pinot Blanc to perfection. Whilst the confit spoke for itself with a demure confidence, its smoked sibling showed off like a diva glamming up for a performance. Bold and sexy it lingered in the mouth and teased us with whisperings about what was to come next.<br /><br />My salt cod belly with creamy beans and chorizo was another hit. Everything about the dish screamed try me and I couldn’t resist. The beans were soft by full of integrity, whilst the mild chorizo added a salty stockiness to the sauce. But the star was the slippery morsel of flaky white cod that sat on top that has to rank as one of my favourite tastes this year. It was rustic to look and somewhat out of place on a menu in hilly Wales, but it worked brilliantly and helped to lift the menu to a new level without being pretentiously chefy.<br /><br />We toyed with the idea of sharing Dear for Two and the Taste of Local Beef for Two, but having seen so many deliciously fluffy sheep on our run, it seemed only right for us to share their iconic Baa Baa Blacksheep sharing dish. It arrived with a satisfying thud on our table and a grin from our waitress – as if to say we’d made a good choice. It was a tour de force in how to cook lamb which demonstrated amazing skill that showcased the different aspects that make this meat so special.<br /><br />The highlights were the surprisingly juicy merguez sausage; the unctuous neck; the light as a balloon faggots; the decadent shepherd’s pie; and the pressed leg that came like a sheepy schnitzel. The only element that could have been better was the loin that could have done with less time over the coals. But we’re just being picky. It’s hard enough to cook lamb well one way. Let alone creating a postmodern bricolage that showcases the multifaceted essence of this magnificently local sheep.<br /><br />We finished with a jar of crackly lemon pudding with curds and meringue and were impressed to see the chef walk the room after his stint at the stove. This final touch may seem frivolous. But when you make an effort to try a chef’s cooking, it makes a big difference psychologically when they are actually in the restaurant. Thinking back to other memorable meals, it certainly made our meal more special when we spoke to Heston Blumnthal at the Fat Duck and also when we were given a quick tour of El Bulli’s kitchen’s by Feran Adria. It’s not that we have got a chef fetish, but seeing Stephen Terry did help to round off a memorable meal. <br /><br />We are going to return in the spring to learn to fish on the Usk, cycle up and down the Black Mountains and most importantly to eat more of The Hardwick's soulful food.Paunchoshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02314874815061501073noreply@blogger.com2